Dirtmafia

Hella
Jan 24, 2011
380
7
18
California
moar awesome truck. love the build for function :imo:

:shake: Thanks man, I try to keep that as priority, if it does not do what I want it to do what's the point in having it right?

looking good! Silly question but is there any risk of the strap touching the CV and wearing? I know it would take a LONG time but though I would ask.

Truck looks amazing BTW

Gracias Senior, there is actually some pretty good clearance between the two, I'll get you a picture next time I have it drooped out.
Can't wait to see it with the SFA. Hopefully you keep the thread updated as I plan on doing the same in the future lol. Love the truck

Gracias, I'm balls deep in a cam swap at the moment but the SFA idea is still alive and well, we muster up different ideas daily at work, at this point I just need to come across the right Dana 60 for the right price $$$$. I might actually end up doing something radius arm style, I've mocked brackets up at work and it could be done rather simple.

nice SAS swap is sweet. dyna 50 is the front right?

Yessir, actually going with a D60 of some sort, I just need the time and funds now to start hacking things up, still having too much fun in this thing haha
 

jonmx477

Active Member
Feb 4, 2011
176
61
28
Just read through your thread. I'm almost embarrassed you get 11" of travel. I'm less than 3" past that lol. How did you like those limit strap clevis'? I've thought amount doing those to try and maximize my droop but they look so much weaker than a tab and I don't want to risk my front end for maybe another inch of droop cause I have over 1.5" of preload on my coils at droop so that's over 1200lbs of spring. But I figure your torsion bars probably has a decent amount of load of them at droop too. Or are they not that bad?

- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

And why did you ditch the supercharger? I have about sold myself on one vs. building a 6.0. My thought was have a more reliable motor that is cheap to replace than building an expensive one. If it came down to it I think I'd rather blow up a stock boosted 5.3 and replace it than blow up a modded 6.0
 

Dirtmafia

Hella
Jan 24, 2011
380
7
18
California
Just read through your thread. I'm almost embarrassed you get 11" of travel. I'm less than 3" past that lol. How did you like those limit strap clevis'? I've thought amount doing those to try and maximize my droop but they look so much weaker than a tab and I don't want to risk my front end for maybe another inch of droop cause I have over 1.5" of preload on my coils at droop so that's over 1200lbs of spring. But I figure your torsion bars probably has a decent amount of load of them at droop too. Or are they not that bad?

- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

And why did you ditch the supercharger? I have about sold myself on one vs. building a 6.0. My thought was have a more reliable motor that is cheap to replace than building an expensive one. If it came down to it I think I'd rather blow up a stock boosted 5.3 and replace it than blow up a modded 6.0

I never said it was a clean 11" of travel :crazy: The CV's bind pretty good at full droop so its strapped up a hair further up now. The clevises are not ideal but they work in the OE sway bar holes, a tab in double shear on the LCA is ideal, a single shear tab on the LCA is probably sufficient for 99% of us. IMO, Don't risk that extra 1.5".

That particular S/C was small for a 6.0 and I should have started with something different. A newer style TVS1900 charger on a 4.8/5.3 would be a hoot. Once you tear apart a 5.3 or a 6.0 they are about the same cost wise, labor is labor. I suppose the idea is to blow neither of them up, but catastrophe is catastrophe, and catastrophe is generally painful (painful read as expensive). You're not going to see a huge power increase by going to a 6.0 with a charger vs a 5.3 with a charger, especially with 37" + tires and an off road setup. ( Run what you brung IMO)

The plug and play install and off idle TQ will always be appealing with a S/C, I wish I could try a new TVS 1900/2300 on my engine to compare. From what I've seen and tinkered with the last few years though, if you want to make "Oh F*ck" LS power, its hard to beat a turbo setup.
 

jonmx477

Active Member
Feb 4, 2011
176
61
28
Haha. Yea I haven't actually measured down where they will bind and i cycled it with them at 26 degrees haha. I ended up at 24 degrees and it seems to be 100% clean.
The tvs1900 would be my number 1 choice. My thought is that 5.3's are easy to come by and very reliable. I'm not looking to build a hot rod. But I'd like to feel less under powered with the 37's.
 

Dirtmafia

Hella
Jan 24, 2011
380
7
18
California
The tvs1900 would be my number 1 choice. My thought is that 5.3's are easy to come by and very reliable. I'm not looking to build a hot rod. But I'd like to feel less under powered with the 37's.

I hear ya, mine is a semi-slug down low even with 35's. I can hear the 4.10's swearing at the 37's in the garage.

What ratio are you running in the back?
 

jonmx477

Active Member
Feb 4, 2011
176
61
28
I have 4.56. If you tow much with it I think that 4.56 is a decent choice with 37's. For my truck I wish I had at least 4.88's now since I don't even have a tow package on mine anymore haha.
 

Milk

Come at me bro
Jun 5, 2012
83
5
8
37
Bakersfield, CA
Got some 37's, Not my ideal tire but they were a hell of a deal.



Also put a light bar behind the grille


Love the light bar man, doing mine this week. My 37's tread are getting low :emo: 500$ a tire sucks. I think I went overboard with my 5.13's kinda wishing i went 4.56 or 4.88's.