CUB's 07 Silverado

Looks real good Cub, and that tailgate looks like its going to be a bitch to fill unless you put that tailgate cap back on lol. Never even thought of having to fill all those holes if I wanted to shave the gate. Anxious for pics on what you decide to do.
 
Yea man I'm trying to see about gettig a metal cap made to just go over all that shit I'm just busy with work/school
 
Just give me tailgate and Ill figure out what to do with it :cheeky:
 
Lol next up is
Throw shackle/spring in
Finish tailgate
Pinch molding on my holes in bed
Carpet the floor/suede up top and lay some sound deadener down.
Paint dash SEM black
HD rear bumper plastics and re-powder the chrome
HD Bumper if I can find one with foggies
 
I know the difference in height between the HD and 1500 rear bumper plastics, but why are you getting them lol. I know some guys get them so they don't have to relocate the bumper after they put on a 1.25" or 1.5" body lift but you obviously aren't lifting it.
 
Do want some suede and sound deadener. Going to see how much a shop in logansport will charge to wrap my seats in leather and put suede on the headliner.
 
I know the difference in height between the HD and 1500 rear bumper plastics, but why are you getting them lol. I know some guys get them so they don't have to relocate the bumper after they put on a 1.25" or 1.5" body lift but you obviously aren't lifting it.

#1 because they look titties
#2 I just fucked mine up putting my bed back on. Chipped the paint on the metal and scratched the plastic :(
 
hold, what do you have on that filler plate? panel bond? please tell me you welded it in?
 
hold, what do you have on that filler plate? panel bond? please tell me you welded it in?
Only did like 10 tacks and it started to warp....so then i put Plio-Grip in all the cracks....
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id grind that back out if i was you. you need to weld the whole filler plate up. if you dont it will end up cracking back through. youll see the whole outline of the whole filler plate. seen it happen a many of times. ive never shaved anything. i believe you can get a wet rag, tack a spot and cool it off . then go to the opposite side and tack it and cool off. basically like how you would tighten a wheel. is it gonna take a while? yea but this will be the best way to keep it from cracking back through. i wont do it right off the bat it may take a yr or so but it will eventually crack back throug. i promise you that.
 
id grind that back out if i was you. you need to weld the whole filler plate up. if you dont it will end up cracking back through. youll see the whole outline of the whole filler plate. seen it happen a many of times. ive never shaved anything. i believe you can get a wet rag, tack a spot and cool it off . then go to the opposite side and tack it and cool off. basically like how you would tighten a wheel. is it gonna take a while? yea but this will be the best way to keep it from cracking back through. i wont do it right off the bat it may take a yr or so but it will eventually crack back throug. i promise you that.
See ive heard mixed reviews...why do body shops use this stuff if its gonna crack? Smitty said he used Fusor and PlioGrip is supp to be better than Fusor

I just cant keep tacking and letting it warp the fuck out of my tailgate...the metal is so thin...if i kept going it woulda warped all the way down the gate to the bottom of it..
No welds on mine. Lord fusor is a wonderful thing for shaving thin sheetmetal parts. The bond is so strong you will rip the sheetmetal before the Fusor breaks. No heat to warp panels and cures in 30 minutes. My tailgate was shaved, bodyworked, primed, painted, buffed in two days. I allowed the fusor and filler to breathe for a couple heat cool cycles in the sun and shade for first day. After using this on all kinds of projects I stopped welding on all shave jobs. The only time I weld is for older vehicles with possible rust. Not sure how rust and the fusor will react so just stick with old school.