Slow RCSB bagged build

10"?


Sent from my b hole


So they turned out to be just a hair over 11" tall at the throat. Probably will be cutting them down to roughly 6 3/4" to lay out a 265/35/22, that's with the bottom 1.5" above the stock frame.



 
I would over notch and add a bump stop imo. Once you do 22's you'll want more.

At least set it up for a 32" tire. You can do just about any size wheel with that.
 
Damn 12" seems huge! If I can lay a 29" tire with 1.5" over the stock rail probably with room to spare, to lay a 32" tire should only take another 1.5" max notch height which only puts it at 8 1/4" . The biggest tire I would run is prob a 265/40/22, really don't have much intention of going any bigger wheels. But I'm if that time ever comes I'll just lay another piece of tube across the top weld it up and cut out the middle. The curvature on the tubing corners will create a natural bevel, giving lots of penetration.
 
I would just rather do it the first time and not have to go back and redo it all later. Do it while you're in there.

Just an opinion though.
 
I wanted to make sure I could go up to a 24" with a 31" tall tire, if i can ever afford billets lol.
 
My goals to keep everything looking as subtle as possible. So I'm trying to cut only what is needed. But doesn't seem like it would hurt to set it up a little higher. I just really don't see 24s in the future as I'm not really willing to do the work up front
 
So here is my ever changing front setup again!! Switched it up to MMW budget arms, so hopefully I can get my camber in check and a little lower ride height being that these are narrowed 1/2" and my wheels are only a +22 offset on a 22x9. After about 100 miles of road testing, these are a great improvement over the art arms I was running. Couple of issues that I did encounter is I was hoping these would come with moog bj's instead they came with mas industries bj's which I have never heard of. My suspicion that they were 2nd rate seems correct, castle nut finishes different, grease zerks stripped, flimsy boots, etc. and the other thing which is quite strange is that the passenger side arm contacts the pocket that's cast into spindles when above ride height. When this happens it makes the steering very hard to turn/bind, I did slightly clearance the arm snout and spindle, but will eventually need to do more. Weird thing is this does not happen on the drivers side, it has full travel. Other than that these ride great and are of great quality, this is only with a driveway measuring tape alignment, so it can only get better after an alignment. I did have to refab my lower shock mounts, weld a couple of studs on the uppers for brake lines, and accuair sensors. Which led me to break my 2nd sensor, but they are in a better configuration now.

New arms
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New shock mounting
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New accuair sensors mounted, works much better now that the eyes are in the same direction, they pivot freely now.
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My buddy is running mmw budget kit on his kit on 24s,except both his arms hit the spindels at max lift....
Sent from my HTC One using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
 
My buddy is running mmw budget kit on his kit on 24s,except both his arms hit the spindels at max lift....
Sent from my HTC One using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2


Good to know I'm not the only one. The art arms used to do that too but their bj plate is only like 1/4" vs mmws are 3/4". The 1/4" would give way to the steering but that ain't happening with the 3/4". Just not sure wether to take material off the spindle or the lca? I'm thinking the lca since it's super beefy. What did your boy do?
 
FINALLY!!! Camber in the green! Was able to get aligned at 28" ground to fender ride height, which I reasonable for driving hawaii roads. Caster to me is not really a big deal, as long as the tires wear evenly I'm happy. I think I finally have a setup that I'm gonna stick with for a while.

 
Small update, started making a battery tray. Needed to be raised a little due to new wheels/tires being a little bigger and the tire got into the stock tray and basically folded it in half. Made out of plate stainless and some stainless bosses to raise it up 5/8", just need to add a strap to secure battery to tray. Little rusty with the tig but came out decent, kept the heat down and got a nice color to the oxidation so I didn't brush them. Hopefully I'll be working graveyards soon, which would allow me to work on the truck during the day and enough time to do the rear and put some finishing touches on the front. Hoping its enough time to raise the bed floor, instead of cut where it hits.

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