Not quite sticky worthy... but should show on keyword search
Replaced outer Tierods and snapped a few pics for those that haven't done there's.
My outer tierod was worn causing a shimmy in the wheel at 50 to 60 MPH and when hitting a bump. The tierod tool isn't necessary but was a free loaner from Autozone. Even with 175 PSI and a strong Impact Wrench I still had to use a Butane Torch to heat the factory's LockTite to break the Tierod loose. If you have no tierod tool use a large wrench or large channel locks to break loose the tierod. The key for me was the torch... wouldn't budge without the heat.
TOOLS: 15/16" Wrench, 11/16 Socket, Large Channel Locks or Tierod Tool, Pliers, Cutters for Inner Boot Clamp, Butane Torch, Blue LockTite, New Tierod.
Loosen Tierod 15/16 jam nut, Remove Tierod retaining nut, Smack Spindle with Hammer to release outer Tierod.
Count the rotations when removing outer Tierod to get back to close specs for easier frontend alignment.
Remove Jam Nut then Remove Boots Outer Squeeze Clamp
I worked a screwdriver under the inner clamp lifting enough to snip. Slip Boot down Tierod and Remove. You can use stainless hose clamp or a appropriate size ZipTie to replace the one time use inner clamp.
Tap back the plastic retainer. A screwdriver will cut the plastic. I used the blunt end of a long 3/8 drive extension.
Now Is When I Heated The Inners Retaing Bolt to Loosen The Factorys LockTite. If you can't find the inner Tierod tool Large Channel Locks will work.
Apply Blue LockTite to new Tierod, Install & Tighten, Slip Plastic Retainer Back Over New Tierod, As You Replace Boot Make Sure The Vent Tube That Runs Between Both Boots Is Inside Each Boot.
Clamp The Boot Down (Inner and Outer), Install Jam Nut, Re-Thread the Outer Tierod On with the Same Thread Count Recorded During Removal.
The Orange Paint On The Rack Isn't a MOD It's Where I Hit a Spray Can In A WorkZone :rofljest: