BARBER's 2003 Chevy LB7 Duramax

j.mo said:
Am not going to clog this fellows thread and have this discussion with your intellect.

The sound and clacking from a 7.3, or a 6.0 comes from the extreme high pressure due to the heui design
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I'll leave it at this; next to the 5.4 3v, 6.0 is the number one selling reman motor for FMC. I would know, I sell them all day long for Ford.
 
12V Cummins>everything else. 6.0s sound like horseshit, especially the damn turbo whistle. Annoying AF.

Got it running yet Barber?
 
Well....I got no good news. Fixing the ground issues didn't correct my problems. Unsure where the problems are coming from. If it wasn't grounded before it is now. With a relocate ground for the second battery and two different ground straps coming from the block to the frame and two ground straps coming from the block to the frame.

Oh...and another jolly notation
..the damned clattering noise that was SUPPOSEDLY the exhaust touching the cab is actually coming from the convertor. ATS told me the specs of the bolts I needed for using a billet flex plate as opposed to using the factory plate and well the bolts bottomed out before the convertor was tight. Popping off the inspection plate I can move the convertor a little bit. So the bolts will need to be shaved down a little bit. Hopefully I didn't fuck up the convertor.
 
Hope you didn't fuck up the convertor stator.... can't believe they didn't know you cant use factory converter bolts... or the fact that they reused them in the first place.

Get new bolts, never reuse converter bolts. Cheap insurance to get new ones. I got new ones when I did mine in the reg cab. What a cocksucker though, now you gotta pull the starter out again and hope you don't drop a converter bolt in the bell housing in the process.
 
Cornell said:
Hope you didn't fuck up the convertor stator.... can't believe they didn't know you cant use factory converter bolts... or the fact that they reused them in the first place.

Get new bolts, never reuse converter bolts. Cheap insurance to get new ones. I got new ones when I did mine in the reg cab. What a cocksucker though, now you gotta pull the starter out again and hope you don't drop a converter bolt in the bell housing in the process.
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No the tranny came with convertor bolts and those were too short. Called both So Cal and ATS and two people from ATS confirmed I needed fine thread 3/8" bolts 3/4" long. Ordered some in and stuck them in.

If I screwed up the convertor I'm goi g to be pissed. But, fixing that will be easy....tracing down the electrical problems is the main thing.
 
also check the ground under the drivers door that goes to the frame. Check the ground in the drivers front core support mount down low.

Maybe do the big 3 and see if that helps... the wire from the alternator could have been damaged during twin turbo kit install and its like 8 gauge garbage anyways.

Kinda sounds like you have a +12v grounding somewhere causing shit to act goofy... intake heater grid deleted? that wire is pretty big and if not capped properly could make some nice sparks.

and its not the cluster.... I drove around without my cluster many times making parts runs to town lol. also cluster was out of my ex cab for 3 weeks when I sent it out for leds before I decided to do it myself on other trucks.


search duramaxdiesels.com for answers to the fuckery going on with your truck, I'm sure theres something on there.

You might need to pound your inner fender with a deadblow for clearance and cut your splash shield for your huge downpipe too.
 
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The guy who has been working on it may be pointing to the BCM at some of my problems. Yea I agree my cluster can't be causing problems.

The guys at the shop can't look into it till next week. The guy who has been working on it is pretty knowledgeable on electrical stuff so I hope like hell he can find the problem.

What pisses me off is I had zero electrical issues and now all shit is fucked up.
 
BARBER said:
The guy who has been working on it may be pointing to the BCM at some of my problems. Yea I agree my cluster can't be causing problems.

The guys at the shop can't look into it till next week. The guy who has been working on it is pretty knowledgeable on electrical stuff so I hope like hell he can find the problem.

What pisses me off is I had zero electrical issues and now all shit is fucked up.
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Check alternator wire... I could see that getting jacked up messing around with charge pipes if not careful. Check the wiring harness that runs over the motor by the y-bridge. I don't even remember how LB7s look anymore under the hood. The intake heater grid wire is right there also. I've grounded that out a few times by accident when deleting EGR and is looked like a spark factory.


This is why I like doing my own shit lol. I can only blame myself for breaking shit.

Searching DD now

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From what I looked at and found you gotta have a parasitic draw, bad ground or a short somewhere.

I would say you fried the internal ground on the TCM but the truck starts and runs still.

Once you drop below 9-10 volts the Allison won't shift anymore because of those voltage issues.


And 6.0 powerstokes sound sweet.... but LBZ's with 5" exhaust, 3" downpipes and 68mm Cheetahs sound better.



:corny:
 
Cornell said:
Check alternator wire... I could see that getting jacked up messing around with charge pipes if not careful. Check the wiring harness that runs over the motor by the y-bridge. I don't even remember how LB7s look anymore under the hood. The intake heater grid wire is right there also. I've grounded that out a few times by accident when deleting EGR and is looked like a spark factory.


This is why I like doing my own shit lol. I can only blame myself for breaking shit.

Searching DD now

- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

From what I looked at and found you gotta have a parasitic draw, bad ground or a short somewhere.

I would say you fried the internal ground on the TCM but the truck starts and runs still.

Once you drop below 9-10 volts the Allison won't shift anymore because of those voltage issues.


And 6.0 powerstokes sound sweet.... but LBZ's with 5" exhaust, 3" downpipes and 68mm Cheetahs sound better.



:corny:
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The intake heater was deleted. The new Y bridge didn't have a spot for it. The wiring was wrapped up with electrical tape and zip tied out of the way.

I posted a topic on Duramax Diesels hoping to pick up some answers there. Feel free to read my story to find out exactly what is up. Need help locating an electrical gremlin - Duramax Diesels Forum

The one guy replied saying his tuner accidentally uploaded a wrong program that caused the delay in the starter.

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Oh and to make everybody happy....pictars....

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Thanks.

Picked up those chrome 18s and 33" Mud Crapplers from my friend this evening. Run them this next summer probably. They need some elbow grease and should clean up fine.
 
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