5speedsilverado's 5 speed silverado

5speedsilverado said:
thought this is worth sharing, the old nova is alive and runs now that has been lurking in some of the photos

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Looks like the Ram and the Tacoma been lurking too
 
ok, so im changing a few things on the truck, one of those things being the notch. i bottom it out too much for my liking. i want to build a square tube notch, and the frame width is 3" so would this tubing be a good size to make the notch out of? going to buy some tubing locally. also plan on building a tubular trans crossmember instead of raising my current one. already have tubing for that though.

http://www.speedymetals.com/ps-4708-202-3-x-2-x-120-wall-rectangular-steel-tubing.aspx
 
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Good thread, just browsed the whole thing, quite a bit of progress! But you keep mentioning wanting handling and performance... then each update is always spending money on cosmetic stuff haha. :crossarms:
 
Because cosmetic stuff is usually cheaper :rofl:

Take lots of pics of that trans xmember you make please. And how often do you bottom out? I only ever do with weight in the bed. If I had helpers it wouldn't be an issue.
 
ShredSled said:
Good thread, just browsed the whole thing, quite a bit of progress! But you keep mentioning wanting handling and performance... then each update is always spending money on cosmetic stuff haha. :crossarms:
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VV his point is very true. i also haven't had as much down time to get into the more performance oriented things. cosmetic was pretty quick lol.
Khaos said:
Because cosmetic stuff is usually cheaper :rofl:

Take lots of pics of that trans xmember you make please. And how often do you bottom out? I only ever do with weight in the bed. If I had helpers it wouldn't be an issue.
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i will be sure to. i bottom out quite a bit. have some huge dips around my area, plus i want to go lower lol. think square tubing that size is strong enough for a bigger notch?
 
That 2nd gear bark :datass:

I need to drive mine next time I go home and get some vids
 
after a couple days of research, im going to build the notch out of 2x3 square tubing. i will cut out that support under the bed, and the bottom of the notch where the axle will hit will be where the current top of the frame is. that should allow me to go a little lower and still be ok travel wise. im also debating a shock bar to relocate the rear shock in a more vertical location.

1209mt-14chevy-luvframe-notch.jpg
 
yeah will post pics with the notch. im no welder, but my dad is so it will have to be on his time, going to learn while im at it.


got a goodie box from summit today, 92k miles and i just hit the squealers last week, so a lil upgrade in the brake department. also got the poly bushings for the front suspension.

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Wow those were some hard brake pads!
Post a pic of the rotors!
And what pads did you choose?

Oh and definitely anxious to see how your notch turns out, I'm looking to do something similar this summer, along with a custom raised trans x-member for 80e, but I'm not a welder at this point either, which sucks! Thinking of signing up for a night welding class at a community college just to learn some basics...
 
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ShredSled said:
Wow those were some hard brake pads!
Post a pic of the rotors!
And what pads did you choose?

Oh and definitely anxious to see how your notch turns out, I'm looking to do something similar this summer, along with a custom raised trans x-member for 80e, but I'm not a welder at this point either, which sucks! Thinking of signing up for a night welding class at a community college just to learn some basics...
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yeah im a believer in chevy brakes, my rotors on the other hand have heat spots and cracks. i drive this truck hard lol.

this is the kit i bought, i will get pics when they are installed, nice drilled and slotted upgrade. going to try to find everything to convert the rear to discs soon.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k2067/overview/
 
Oh damn I've never cracked a rotor myself but I have a coworker who ended up with cracked rotors on his Sierra Denali not too long ago.
But that said, many people say to avoid drilled rotors because they are even more prone to cracking.
 
they are very small cracks, nothing i worried to much about. what i have found is it is usually the cheaper rotors that crack when they are drilled and slotted. we will find out though.
 
Those poly bushings are a nice upgrade and easy to install, I have the same set. Do a rear sway bar when you can, it's sooo much nicer.
 
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