00silvy's official 2000 Silverado Build thread

00silvyON said:
Very true. I would want 6L power again, coil over lift, tires & wheels, and awesome stereo again lmao.

not to mention, I have new brake rotors, pads, calipers, (05+ fronts, tahoe rears), new inner & outer TRE's, upper control arms with BJ, lower BJ's, idler arm & bracket, pitman arm (all Moog), NNBS CV's, timken hubs, new battery (AGM), new starter, all new coils/wires/plugs, new alternator & both belts & all pulleys, all new filters, all fresh fluids (diffs, everything) all new moog u-joints, new Delco fuel pump (soon).
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Exactly, so take down for sale ad. I didn't give you 6.0l how-to for you to sell the truck 2 weeks later :)
 
Fiesty said:
Exactly, so take down for sale ad. I didn't give you 6.0l how-to for you to sell the truck 2 weeks later :)
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hahaha, It's been more than 2 weeks :lemon:

I think I am gunna leave it up, but for a very high price. Thinkin $9500. If someone throws cash at me, all thiers, if now. Spend more money on truck lmao
 
Oh when you said uppers I was thinking tubular upper control arms for some reason.

And selling for an 05+ just to start off in the hole and with no mods doesn't sound worth it to me. Just my opinion though.


Ginger said:
I had my rockers and cab corners replaced, cost like 1800 bucks. :shrug:
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Not bad. Any idea what brand rockers and corners were used?
 
I have a ton of tiny dents, and some minor surface Rust. I can do rockers & cab corners myself. Cousin can weld them on. Rockers & Cab corners are cheap. Last time I checked around $350 for all 4.

Then I need basically a full paint job.
 
Some pics of the truck as of yesterday. Nothings changed, its just still dirty. Its either 30 below, or snowing here for the past two weeks.



I have a question about my G80 rear end. I know once on tire slips, after a few rotations, the other side will engage, and both rear wheels will spin. Well I did a "break stand" on snow covered Ice yesterday, just to see it works. And on ice, both tires spin same speed. But if I do a burnout on pavement, only 1 spins. I'm assuming its whatever tire with the least amount of traction? Is there any way to fix a G80, or is it just time for a TrueTrac?
 
need a new locker. cant really fix them nor is it worth it. g80s generally suck balls. my g80 in my dmax is shot.
 
g80's on the 14 bolts hold up a lot better for kyles situation on the 10 bolts they suck. best bet is to put a true trac in now before the g80 blows and takes out the ring and pinion as the same time being that you can reuse your ring and pinion as long as they are still in good shape


btw ever fix your 4wd?
 
Lulz every time g80 comes up I remember buying my truck and thinking it needed new locker knocked off 1600 off the price lulz but rear end was fine ...but yeah get a true-trac I did my research and that was the best option for a dd


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well i laid into it up my street today and laid 2 black stripes... so i guess my g80 works when it wants.


lol oops this is kyle
 
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Ginger said:
g80's on the 14 bolts hold up a lot better for kyles situation on the 10 bolts they suck. best bet is to put a true trac in now before the g80 blows and takes out the ring and pinion as the same time being that you can reuse your ring and pinion as long as they are still in good shape


btw ever fix your 4wd?
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I just dont get why G80 works on the hard packed snow, but not bare pavement?

And no I havent fixed 4wd. I gotta drop truck off at a shop with torches, so they can heat the yoke stuck in the transfer case enough to yank it out. My propane torch and air hammer didnt do it (not the best air hammer). Bought a new front driveshaft though. Going to replace front u-joint, and rear one.

One of these days
 
Yeah like I was saying in your other thread, my g80 would paint 11's from a stop or low roll on pavement every time. No brakes torquing though, and that was on shortish tires.


Why do you need to remove the yoke from TC?
 
ShredSled said:
Yeah like I was saying in your other thread, my g80 would paint 11's from a stop or low roll on pavement every time. No brakes torquing though, and that was on shortish tires.


Why do you need to remove the yoke from TC?
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Cuz that muffukin yoke is siezed into the transfer case. Slip yoke, doesn't slip..... lol.
When I did lift, driveshaft had to come forward like 1/2" or so. Except it wouldnt budge.... So I took out the u-joint at the yoke, and remove front driveshaft. Right now the truck only has 2wd, and the yoke spins in the transfer case.
 
Well Truck needs some much needed attention. Fuel pump is still fucked, need to get my upper shock mounts installed asap, de-crank the front end 1/2" or so, align truck, get tires flipped over on rims (a little cambered on the outside), then rotate.

Tomorrow I am going to get my tires swithc around, and rotate them. As well as de-mold, and de-badge, then add my VortecMAX bade to the doors, need to change some HID ballasts also.

Also developed a little bit of a exhaust manifold leak, so going to look for signs of a small leak, and add some ultra copper to exhaust.

I may remove the vent visors, and half unlevel my tows(still "level" them, just add a very small shim. As it seems my almost angle downwards), Thoughts?






 
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