What would you do? 400HP Daily

Birds03Z71

New member
Apr 26, 2012
18
0
0
After reading D1NMANS thread, I decided if I’m going to keep my current truck, I’d better get a plan in place for when shit starts breaking. That way I’m not debating over engine/trans/rearend swaps while the truck sits and don’t end up leaving power on the table due to hasty decisions.

The starting platform:
2003 GMC Sierra ECSB 5.3l 4X4 177K
Factory Drivetrain all the way back
3.73(towing package), CAI, exhaust, BBP tune
I’m planning on summit LTs with high flow cats when I can afford it

So, how would you achieve 400HP out of my truck daily driven?
Would you keep the 5.3l or go 6.0?
What cam? And what top end parts?
Is head work worth it for the price?
Supercharged, turbo, NAWWWS?
List a ballpark price of your build

The only stipulation I have is I’m not big on higher rpm stall converters. I know it can be done in a daily, but I wouldn’t want to. If that’s your preference please list it though.

I’m just wanting to pick every ones brain here and learn a thing or two from this thread. Hopefully this thread will help others out in the future.
I should note that I’ve read a lot here, on PT.net and on GMFS but still have a long way to go on knowledge of internal engine mods, especially cam specs.
 
It's tough to get to 400hp with a 5.3 w/o FI or nitrous. Easiest way is 6.0 W/ FBO. :imo: Stalls are not that bad, I have a yank TT3000, and it drives just like a stock converter, and without one is kinda pointless if you want a fast truck.

Edit* or if all you want is 400hp then a 6.0 w/ a 100 shot should get you there.


Sent from my iPhone 4s
 
6.0 with a boost friendly cam and a used supercharger imo. Plenty of room for expansion as well.
 
6.0 and cam for starters. Then built trans, then maybe boost/FI, then 14bolt rear and gears and locker.
 
It's tough to get to 400hp with a 5.3 w/o FI or nitrous. Easiest way is 6.0 W/ FBO. :imo: Stalls are not that bad, I have a yank TT3000, and it drives just like a stock converter, and without one is kinda pointless if you want a fast truck.

Edit* or if all you want is 400hp then a 6.0 w/ a 100 shot should get you there.


Sent from my iPhone 4s

I should have clarified that better. a 3000 would be fine. thats probably the max i would go with. I see guys around here DDing with a 3600 or 4000 stall and wonder how they do it. I guess theyre not quality stall converters, but it sounds like someone is smoking the clutch on a 5 speed.


Are we talkin wheel horsepower? or at the crank?

Wheel. With long tubes soon and my current mods i'm probably in the neighborhood of 375 crank already.
 
First question.. budget?

You doing all of this work yourself or paying someone else to do it?

I'm more interested in how others would do it. I want to get a broad spectrum of opinions on whats the best way to get there, more so than whats the best for my wallet. I don't want to put a budget on the build, I want to find the best option and budget myself into that build. Basically, whats the best way to do this in your opinion, with all aspects of the build in mind. MPG, driveability, cost, reliability, ease of install, downtime, etc.

Any internal motor work I wouldn't. Motor swap I think I could handle and have the tools for.
 
Drop a tvs1900 on the 5.3 and you should be at or damn near 400 rwhp, quickest and easiest way to reach your goal.

Or buy 6.0 and do cam, heads, intake, etc. prc heads are good for the price, pat g/eps cam, tbss intake, lt's, and you should be around 400rwhp. this could end up being cheaper depending on if you get a good core to start with(if you have to rebuild, cost goes way up) but also will be way more work, more down time, need a bigger converter which you don't want, and get worse gas mileage

either way you need to do something to the trans.. definitely 80e swap IMO if you're going FI, even NA it isn't a bad idea
 
easiest and least invasive way would be buy a turbo. KB racing and Trick both offer great kits. Shit even Tricks 76mm ball bearing setup is only 4000$. All else is needed is exhaust hook up to DP, Injectors, and Tuning. EASILY the best power to $$ Ratio. Will make 400rwhp on very low boost, can easily make 500rwhp. Also creates no strain when not in boost, and keeps decent gas milage when not into the boost.


I have a pretty well built lq9 and 4l65e setup in my rcsb. I would never run that setup for a daily and its probably 440ish rwhp, and drive ability isnt that great as far as comfort goes.
 
I think this would be the best way to do it and keep it mild but still get your number. Lq9 short block with a set l92 heads and camshaft,long tube headers,tune. That should get you close with out forced induction. A stock ly6 has 364 horsepower stock and that is what I built but on a 24x motor. So you add a better cam and exhaust and a tune I think you could get to 400 easy and not have to buy a huge converter