U joint replacement

Jared

Jared

Administrator
Feb 8, 2012
20,572
116
0
North Dallas
I will be doing this tomorrow, other than torching them, any other tips or tricks?

Going to buy a ujoint press, because my truck hates me, and I am sure the socket trick won't work!

Or just use a ball joint press?
 
Last edited:
So U-joint press is just ball joint press with different adapters? Never heard of one :think:

I mean, yeah, you gotta beat the piss out of it but it's still the same amount of force that the press would havta make. Doesn't really hurt the socket :shrug:
 
Quit being such a pussy and use a hammer. Few good whacks and it will be enough. Provided you've heated it up enough for it to skeet. Beware sometimes it will skeet a long ways and with some force.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 
Keeler said:
Quit being such a pussy and use a hammer. Few good whacks and it will be enough. Provided you've heated it up enough for it to skeet. Beware sometimes it will skeet a long ways and with some force.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

:roflsquared: ^this. needle bearings and caps LOVE to fly and you'll NEVER find all the pieces
 
Meh, I like having the right tool for the right job, no need in wasting time beating on shit, when it cost no money to rent a tool, or $30-$50 for the correct tool, dont be such a cheap fucking idiot and buy tools!
 
Just a little info i threw together in my experience with u-joints. Correct me if im wrong.
u-joints, when on their way out will start to develop a ticking noise when under load (accelerating). If they are really bad off they will tick constantly and have slop in the drive shaft when pushing and pulling on it from side to side with the truck in neutral. It's a pretty loud tick since i could hear it over my exhaust drone with the windows up. You will want to replace these ASAP bc if they break loose you run the chance of tearing alot of stuff up both underneath your truck and the drivetrain (transfer case/transmission/etc).
When we replaced them ourselves we used a variety of ways, socket and BFH, c-clamp (not that great), and finally a smaller BJ press(best option). I have also had a shop replace them when i was in a bind while working. Any shop can do these in 15-20min. I would suggest going to a driveline specialist and get them to do the work. I paid ~$80 for both front and rear joints on my rear driveshaft. Not bad of a price to not deal with the headache they can be sometimes IMO.
I'm not sure which are better (greasable or sealed). If you get the greasable joints its suggested to grease them along with the rest of your front end zerks fittings every 3-5k miles
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back