Id go with borla XR1, I have the 40944 and it's pretty quiet at idle but loud once I get on it, I also have longtubes
thx for link
So I've been thinking... After getting quoted for drop, billets, tires, tubs, narrowed rear end etc I think I've decided to call it off. Doing it the correct way is very pricey so I think I'm going to just put stock shackles back on with rear block removed and do a 2.5" or 3" level. It's just more practical for a daily for me right now. As new as the truck is I just don't want to cut it up and put loads of money into it then run into problems down the road. (Think I'm going to buy a single cab project to make slammed race truck with) so my question for y'all is should I do a 2.5"bit 3" level? Or just spend the couple hundred extra and run 4" spindles (not sure if you need aftermarket upper control arms with these) also I can get really good deals on American Force wheels so I'm trying to decide if I want to run 22x12 or 24x12 polished wheels? Definitely not running mud tires as I would have no use with them on a 2wd they're just a money pit in my opinion. Most likely going to run Nitto 420's but possibly all terrains. I just want something different.. Not just he same 6" lift with 20s on 35s like you see everyday.
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24x12
22x12
22x10
Not sure on the last pic but I'm really digging these setups.. Leaning more towards the leveled look now
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No more than 22 max imo. And is there any difference in ride quality or anything with a drop shackle vs block removed?
live from the gutter trash.
live from the gutter trash.
Thanks man that's what I was thinking. I have 2" shackles and stock block removed and it's definitely a little stiffer than stock and I do hit factory bump stops with full truck on big dips
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What's up guys. Decided to hold off on the suspension for a while. I like how it looks just with the shackles and stock rear block removed. It's a clean simple look that doesn't sacrifice the ride comfort. Decided to pull the trigger on full bolt ons and tune instead. Just trying to get all the parts needed before I install it the first week of October before the BlackBear tune out in Fort Worth. I want to have everything needed minus the cam, cam kit (cam, springs, pushrods, lifters, dod delete, afm bypass, timing chain and stall converter so please don't recommend me to do any of these add ons yet. They will be done early to mid of next year.
Right now I have Magnaflow exhaust, Lingenfelter 174* thermostat, S&B cold air intake, Taylor high heat spark plug wires, iridium spark plugs, Texas speed 1 7/8" stainless steel longtubes headers (wondering if I should apply a heat coating to the headers or not necessary?) & 3" off road y pipe, underdrive pulley, and a RX catch can.
I was wondering if you guys would recommend any other modifications along with these? I know throttle body spacer doesn't do anything but I was thinking about buying one anyway (just for throttle response) or if porting and polishing my stock throttle body would be a better bet? Also should I pull the trigger on intake manifold and gears now or can those wait?
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks, TJ
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Right now I have Magnaflow exhaust, Lingenfelter 174* thermostat, S&B cold air intake, Taylor high heat spark plug wires, iridium spark plugs, Texas speed 1 7/8" stainless steel longtubes headers (wondering if I should apply a heat coating to the headers or not necessary?) & 3" off road y pipe, underdrive pulley, and a RX catch can.
I was wondering if you guys would recommend any other modifications along with these? I know throttle body spacer doesn't do anything but I was thinking about buying one anyway (just for throttle response) or if porting and polishing my stock throttle body would be a better bet? Also should I pull the trigger on intake manifold and gears now or can those wait?
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks, TJ
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So I installed my S&B CAI last night on my truck everything was good but after I drove about 10 miles my cel came on now the cruise control won't work and remote start as well. Anyone know why this happened and how to fix it?
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As to why cel came on no. But with a cel remote start an cruise are disabled until it's cleared. Any way to get ahold of a scanner?
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Welp turned out my MAF sensor was installed backwards lmao. The guy who installed it wasn't paying attention I guess. Got the truck tuned down in Houston at KHP and I would highly recommend them for any performance or tuning if you're in the Texas area. The prices aren't too bad and they do great work. Will be going back down to Houston here in a couple weeks for longtubes and retune by them. The truck runs amazing and it's crazy how much these trucks gain off just a tune. One cool thing about the KHP tune is that it has a launch control toggle. Turn traction control, stabilitrack off, turn AC off, then push the tow/haul mode inbetween 20-25 mph and the truck will rev up by itself to about 3,500 rpm then punch it and that bitch will take off. It's badass!! Stay tuned for updates
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I'm ordering my lowering kit this weekend. One quick question to everyone experienced with lowering components. Would you guys recommend the Belltech or the Mcgaughys lowering struts for the front? And I'm buying a 4/7 kit. The front will consist of 2" spindles and 2" struts, the rear will just be flip kit shock extenders and shocks. I was wondering what components I could run in the future if I wanted to go down to a 5/8 or 6/9 after I notch. I know I could add shackles or lowering blocks but not sure on front end. I wanted to stay away from coil springs. Not trying to sacrifice the ride of have hella bad camber
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Tiller just installed the mcguaghys adjustable 4/7 kit on his 16 rcsb. Maybe he can chime in on it
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