bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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As the heavy parts that had been repainted started to pile up I knew it was time to figure out a mobile base for the saw. I could have purchased a $120 adjust-to-fit base that would accept the weight of the saw but I just couldn't bring myself to do it.



We had a pile of scrap and drops at work I put to use.



Not having a pulse module and welding stainless at the house makes managing the heat tough. I overcooked these guys pretty well as shown by the thick oxide layer. The downhill fillet worked out alright, but clearly that was because of the angle's thickness not my own skill.



A stand was born.




The swivel casters are a tight fit both in relation to the angle and the gusset. I had originally planned to run a supporting band over the top of the caster plate to truss it from above, but as shown below, it may be overkill.



The motor mount plate refinished along with it's clocking tab and pivot rod.



I finally assembled some parts and it's resembling itself once again.
 
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bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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i assume when its done it wont be on the castors? im just trying to picture pushing something to cut it and it keeps rolling away from you.

It's going to remain on casters, I just haven't built the lifting legs. Wheels are too handy not to have when my material work size varies so widely.

I dug into the upper wheel tension and tilt assembly.



The bearings have been replaced in it's lifetime with SKF units and then green locktited in place which is the standard solution as W-T used some interesting inner diameters that are a thou undersized from standard 6202 bearings up top. I cleaned out the junk and repacked them with grease. I also tore it all down, cleaned everything up and greased the threaded shafts and oiled the linear shafts. The carriage has bronze bushings it uses to ride on the linear shafts so just enough oil to get everything moving freely again should last a very long time.

 

bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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true, you using a screw type leg for it. we use a similar setup on our machinary so it can be leveled on whatever surface it gets placed on.

Yes, I think a set of screw legs is going to be the best way to go about it. I thought about a cam style floor lock, which would be quick, but I don't know how easy it would be to use the saw in that configuration.



I got the lower blade guide cleaned up and reassembled.



I also got the inner guards cleaned up, painted and installed along with the upper wheel tilt/tension block. As you can see the saw currently resides in the catch all room which is awaiting tear down via permit from the city.
 

bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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Just snagged a 1hp 3ph Marathon washdown motor and a Westinghouse VFD with 110vac input to run this thing.

Now just to verify belt size when I get home and get a new pulley to match the bigger 5/8" motor shaft.
 

bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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Yea, grabbed another 4 pole (1725rpm @ 60hz) motor like the original. This one is just twice the rated horsepower (more like another 38% power due to rating changes) and happens to be washdown rated as well as being a TEFC motor. Still a 56 frame motor.

I need to get another 4 step cone pulley to match the pulley on the gear box as the new motor has a 5/8" shaft instead of a 1/2".

I doubt I'll be changing belt locations much though with the VFD.
 

bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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normally if i have a VFD or as we call it at my work a VSD then i set it up for the most torque and use the drive to speed it up lol

Ayup, only makes the most sense being able to go over 300% faster and loosing torque from the motor as you wind the rpm down. Might as well give it the most mechanical advantage you can and then just crank the speed if you really need it.
 

bggrnchvy

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Mar 23, 2012
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Motor and pulley showed up last week. Nice to have some more power and to have a well sealed motor.



I haven't been able to make any progress on the saw otherwise due to some other projects.

I was finally swapping the cam in my truck, which I've been wanting to do for years.



My wife decided she want to 'paint' our very 80's main bath. It quickly snowballed from her painting project to our drywall, retaping, tiling, new vanity, toilet, fixtures, and electrical project. I finally got the vanity plumbed in Sunday, all I have left is to shave the door an 1/8" to clear the tile better. I opted not to replace the tub or the tile around it, even if the accent along the top is beige. It's getting a shower curtain :p