ITGuy's 1972 Chevrolet Custom 350 C10 - Shop Truck / Noise Maker

Hmmm these are not going to fit...

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Just ran some errands and picking up parts for my other build.
 
Unless Boss re-designed the rim, it shouldn't be a direct fit. If it did direct fit then you have the smaller 1" rotors. The guys with the HD brake package and the 1.25" thick rotors had to trim the center hub to clear the wheels. Less work for you, and looks way better! Congrats
 
Yeah I was reading that thread on the 67-72 forum.. but that was a few years ago. They came out with several revisions and I think they finally corrected the problem. Like you said though... either way, it was less work for me! :) I've gotten a lot of comments on the wheels and they appear to be good quality. I did mention earlier that they took very very little to balance them out.

Someone just made me an offer on it today while I was at Lowes. I should flip this damn thing and make $.
 
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My front lugs keep coming loose. It's pissing me off.
I bought the lugs w/ the rims and they knew the vehicle it was going on.

I'm hoping this nonsense will stop soon. I don't drive very far luckily.
Just check them them today and I had 2-3 loose on the passenger side and a couple loose on the drivers side.
Re-torqued to 100ftlbs in a star pattern. DNFW to loose a wheel on the highway.

/end rant.
 
Last few days I have been encountering rough idle at start, throttle response is lethargic at times until WOT.
Sometimes I can hear it pop through the carb, and it's probably running rich to boot. Fuel economy is way down.

I will be going through the ignition system when I finish the 2500 this weekend.
I am going to adjust the ignition timing and total timing if needed, but I won't be touching the curve yet.
New plugs properly gapped and a wire inspection & replacement wouldn't hurt either.

Other then that, nothing much planned. Running it everyday back and forth to work and around town to do errands + pick up parts.

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thats a load of shit.

i personally have ran a GM cap rotor coil module and a MSD cap rotor coil module.

i currently have the OEM gm module with a MSD cap rotor and coil.

pull it appart make sure the contacts are clean and there isnt water inside the coil area.

put it back together with whatever parts, and check the timing. you should be somewhere around 32 degree roughly,
 
Yeah I am pretty good with ignition systems / tuning etc. My father and I used to work on motors when I was a teenager.
The family had a GM car dealership back in the 60's and 70's - and even though it was before I was around, we still had a lot of vehicles and equipment from that era.
That's how I got into working on motors etc. I kind of miss those days.

Not knowing how the engine was "built" I will stick with that total timing figure. It's not cammed etc, so it should be fine.
I'll know a lot more after taking some readings from the harmonic balancer.. get an idea of where it is currently at.

Maybe next week. As long as it doesn't degrade, I'm ok with it for the short term.
 
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Pulled the dizzy cap and coil, and one of the leads broke right off the coil. :eek:
It was probably just barely hanging on.

I cleaned all the contacts and soldered the connection back to it's post. Sprayed out the gunk in the distributor and cleaned that up some. Also wire brushed the corrosion off the ground.

Put it all back together. It definitely runs smoother, especially at WOT.
I did make a note of a weathered vac plug on the top of the carb and a weathered vac line running back to the dizzy. The plug wires look healthy and so does the cap. I should replace the coil, or considering swapping the whole system out. When I was putting the wires back on, I almost felt as though 5 & 7 were not on properly (swapped) but I think it would have run far worse.

Next I will replace that vac line and all the plugs.
 
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