Cam time-possible DoD failure

Jared

Jared

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Well, it seems the DoD lifter plague hit my car Friday night while in San Antonio, I was able to get the car back home safely yesterday. I'm not positive, but it's most likely a failing lifter. Once I have some free time I will figure it all. Noise seems to be coming from the valve cover area, but it doesn't sound like a typical lifter noise.

That being said, I have everything ready for the most part minus cam specs
BTR 5.3/6.0/6.2 DOD/AFM Delete Kit - Brian Tooley Racing

I'm doing ARP bolts, may do the LS7 MAF. I will be ditching my jba headers for a set of longtubes, now I wish I had bought the set of kooks on Black Friday for $664 shipped! NO STALL at this time, regardless of the benefits, I just don't want to spend the extra money, the headers and tune are all ready going to cost me an arm and a leg. Pat G will be tuning the car, he has quite a bit of experience with the G8s.

Now, for cams, I am not quite sure what I will run. Looking for ideas here. The car is my DD, and will be for a while. I don't go to the track, I run heavy 20" camaro wheels. Not looking to beat up on people at local meets. I just want a very well performing cam with good street manners. Rick Crawford is doing big things with small cams. I will be checking with him, Pat G, Brian Tooley, and researching all the forums.

This one was recommended http://www.briantooleyracing.com/naturally-aspirated-ls3-stage-i-camshaft.html

Rick on a thread I read recommends 219/223

When I spoke with Pat about the BTR LS3 stage two, this was his reply: "The 225/238 113 is not a very good choice for a DD. A 13 degree split between intake and exhaust is not necessary. You lose too much low and mid rpm torque plus it takes a toll on street manners. At 5.5 degrees of overlap at .050", it's too much for a stock stall."

"If you are running stock torque converter, you want to keep your overlap at .050" less than 2 degrees. If you have a 3200 stall but are using your car as a DD, you can go up to 8 degrees of overlap at .050" before it gets too bothersome for 24/7 use."
 
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Khaos

Khaos

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2005_Silverado

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I bet he specs u seomthing along the lines of my cam...216/220 with .55X or lower lift on 114 or 113+2

Eitherway, gonna be a nice DD
 
DirtyBlackHD

DirtyBlackHD

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I'd disregard that table and pick something specific for your car.I would go with cammotion eps lobes.... Just figure your desired DCR and spec yourself. Is this a 6.0? Figure so since auto. I'd ballpark around 224/230-113+4. Do you want lope? If so id aim for +2-4deg overlap(112-113 lsa for 224/230), if not -2-0 overlap(114-115).
You'll likely not be able to run cheapo ls6 springs with any eps endurance lobe but the extra $50-100 is so worth it to run high quality springs.
Since you are pulling the heads you should really consider milling them to bump CR, especially if your have some overlap.
Stock scr is 10.4. I'd go to 11.0 with 0 or negative overlap. I'd go to 11.2-11.3 with 2-4 deg overlap. Whatever gets your DCR around 8.7 as long as you run 93octane.
 
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Jared

Jared

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Thanks for the info, some of that I do not understand.

It is a 6.0, L76. I considered milling, but just depends. Lope, sure.
 
DirtyBlackHD

DirtyBlackHD

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Milling should only cost $30x2, and its in your best interest 1. For virgin surface 2. To gain power 3. To gain mpg. It'll likely net 20rwtq alone.
A theory i'm on board with is engine builds lose some low end torque when you increase cam overlap since that lowers your dynamic compression ratio. Increasing static compression can compensate, regaining that low end torque as well as increasing power at all rpms.
Googlize dynamic compression.
It was the first priority i used when spec'ing my most recent cam. Turned out very well.

Overlap = i(nt dur@.050 + ex dur@.050)/2 - (LSA x 2)
Example: 224/236-112

(224+236)/2 - 112x2 ~~~~> 230-224 ~~~> +6 overlap.
 
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DirtyBlackHD

DirtyBlackHD

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Spinmonster Cam specs different for LS2 and LS3? - Corvette Forum
Spinmonster general specs. 230/234 605/600 114+2 for ls3, 228/232 600/600 114+2 for ls2.
Ballparking, 226/230, 600/600(closest eps endurance lobe), 113 or 112, +2 or 4 would likely work for you. But you really should verify your SCR and DCR plans to match. Psi1511 or pac1518 would be best. 5/16 .080 pushrods will work... But you can go double taper with a little more beef like 11/32 .080 if you want more stability.


Worth a read if you increase valvetrain weight and want to turn rpm http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/14...n-stability-ls7-exhaust-valves/#ixzz3Ce45USBo
 
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S

ShredSled

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It seems like at the end of your original post there you are hinting at how you should just swap the TC, otherwise end up just settling with a cam spec to compensate for stock...
Which IMO would in turn become a future excuse to further delay or put off the TC "since you'd just have to get another cam again..."

Why not just take care of it all as a system and not do steps that may need to be redone later.
 
Jared

Jared

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There are plenty of cams that make good power without the need for a tc. And I may not have the extra down time. I'd like to get it done quickly.
 
Samuel6731

Samuel6731

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If you EVER plan for a stall i would cam accordingly for that instead of eventually getting a stall and regretting not going slightly bigger.

My cam is amazing in this 5.3 but i bought it for a 6.0 for when i swap. I think it would be amazing in you car honestly.
224/230 grounded on EPS endurance lobes.

As covered above, about springs and EPS endurance lobes. Geoff's lobes are very tame and DD friendly which is why his cams in general have alot more lift. I run BTR dual 660 springs, I love them. Quiet/dependable for $200 they are worth the piece of mind and quality

EDIT: once you put a cam and become slightly faster youll want more. IMO my converter is my favorite Mod.
 
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Jared

Jared

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The ls7 have a "high" rate of failure. My plan was to just run them, and I still may. But the Morel aren't much more. I can get a set for $170
 
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