Cant Get Right
Mar 11, 2012
New Roads La.
Ok guys going to make an attempt at this.
This is to answer or assist any of those who have question about drop parts, and what to run with what.
Basically different drops can be achieved very many different ways. Your most-known drops are 2/4, 3/6, 4/6, 4/7, 5/8, 6/9. The first number being how much your lowered in front and second is how much your lowered in the rear.

So the front can be done a few different ways using a few different parts.
Spindles, coils, chopped coils, coil with spacer, lower control arms

Spindles- Drop 2". Generally MCG keeps your steering radius closest to factory.

coils- Pretty simple, replacing the stock/factory coil with a shorter one will give you drop. DJM I find are stiffer, but Belltech also has good coils (I cant comment on MCG I have no experience with them) Belltech makes a 3" drop coil that comes with 1" coil spacers, I would buy the 3" coils and run the spacer if you ever plan to go lower in the future and just remove the spacer. Also the 3" coils settle about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch generally. Running a 3" coil I would Highly recommend looking into A camber bushing kit. The 3" coils cause a lot of camber and a lot of time cant all be removed without the kit.

Chopping coils- Although I do not recommend this it has been done numerous times, cutting half of a ring off the coil nets 1" more of drop. In other words if you cut one full ring off the coil you will get 2" of drop. Also I would never recommend using heat such as a torch. It may affect the load capacity. Simply use a grinder/sawzall/bandsaw

Lower Control Arms- I have no experience with and cant comment on them. I have read about quite a few people have alignment troubles with them and those who are satisfied with them.

2" drop- spindles OR coils

3" drop- Coils

4" drop- Most common way to achieve 4" drop upfront would be the basic 2" drop coil, and the 2" drop spindle combined. DJM does make Lower control arms but i have no experience with them so cant comment on them. I have heard a lot of people having alignment problems with them.

5" drop- 3" drop coils, combined with spindles will give you 5" of drop. 2" drop coils can be chopped and combined with a spindle to achieve 5". Remember using 3" drop coil a camber bushing kit may be needed to remove all the camber.

The rear can also be done many different ways.
Shackles, flip-kits, hangers, leafs, blocks, notches.

Shackles- Mounted on the rear of the leaf pack closer to the tailgate. Basically move the leaf pack up with the axle causing the body to sit lower. They are adjustable from 1" to 2" of drop.

Hangers- Mounted on the front the leaf pack. Again same idea as the shackles, move the leaf pack up. They are not adjustable. These give you a 2" drop. Hangers can not be used on a CrewCab.
Generally I would not mess with hangers unless going with a 2/4 drop on a extended cab, or single cab.

FlipKit- Gives you 6" of drop. Your taking the Axle and remounting it on top of the leaf pack instead of on the bottom. This can be combined with Shackles, hangers, leafs, blocks for more drop. DJM- has an adjustable Pinion angle that is why I prefer their kit. Some however argue MCG or the Belltech kits are better but shims are needed adjust pinion angle.

Blocks- once a flipkit is installed blocks can be added between the axle and leaf pack for added drop. Blocks come in different sizes for different drop amounts. Longer U-Bolts maybe needed depending on what size blocks you plan to install.

Leafs- I have no experience with but can say that drop leafs from what iv read cause for a bouncy ride and spongy feel. There are some who Pull leafs out I do not recommend this. I would never touch the leaf pack you will loose ride quality.

Notch- A C-notch I recommend when going any lower than 4" of drop in the rear. It allows the Axle more travel room and reduces "bottoming out" tremendously. Never use a DJM notch- reason behind this is it is a weak designed and has bent my frame, also a few others I have read about. I would highly recommend either MCG or Belltech. They both are "box in" designed which are alot stronger than the open designed DJM notch. MCG and Belltech are both "bolt-in" meaning you cut the frame and bolt the notch in. There are how ever larger "weld-in" notches.

Pinion angle- adjustments are needed for anything lower than 4 basically. Otherwise it will cause a vibration at certain speeds.

2" drop- shackles
4" drop- hanger&shackles OR flip-kit & lift shackles
5" drop- flip kit & lift shackles NOTCH
6" drop- flip kit NOTCH
7" drop- flip kit & shackles set at 1" NOTCH
8" drop- flip kit & shackles set at 2" NOTCH

NOTES- shocks are needed for anything lower than a 2/4 set up.

I would highly recommend a helper bag setup for any of those going around 6-8" of drop in the rear and want to tow. Also CrewCabs have a tendency to sit lower, helpers are almost a must for 7 to 8" of drop on a crew cab. Helper bags are airbag that attach to the frame and the leaf pack. They are adjustable with air pressure to allow for a soft ride, or a firm lift for towing.

Crew Cabs also come with the large aluminum drive shaft which rub. Notching the cross members will be needed. going lower than 7" severe notches will be needed, and under cab modification may be needed. The best way to solve this would be a 2PC drive shaft swap. They are alot smaller but a custom cross member to hold its bearing is needed.

rolled fender lips- rolling fender lips in the rear most of the time is a must. Under the fender well you will feel where the body rolls inward to the tire. Rolling that lip up flat or flush give you around 3/4" more clearance for you tire/wheel.

mini tub- basically cutting away some the fender upfront directly above the tire for added suspension travel.

camber the inward or outward lean of the wheel/tire, sometimes negative camber is needed to run large wheel and tire combos on a low drop to allow more suspension travel and turning.

I'm sure I have missed a few things, I hope this will help anyone with questions about "drop parts" and what to run with what.
Any corrections needed just post either I or a MOD will edit.
Any questions post here, or PM me.
Thanks, Samuel6731
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Dat Static 4wd
Mar 12, 2012
Also a cheap way for front drop on 4x4 would be drop keys

Sent from my EVO 3D using Tapatalk


Active Member
Mar 21, 2012
one thing you failed to mention about cutting coils, KEEP THE HEAT DOWN. you do this by using and electric cut off wheel or a saw zaw(maybe?). keep the heat down will not mess with the spring rate(considering the springs has a consistent spring rate through out the whole spring.) thus keeping the ride quality the same as it was before cutting. also i dunno about 16" spindles being cheaper? as far as im aware mcgaughys is the only one that makes them. supposedly this is the best spindle because it is the closest to the factory spindle.


New Member
Apr 8, 2012
3" up front and keeping an easy alignment is best achieved with 1" spring, 2" spindle. May want to add this.


Feb 8, 2012
North Dallas
can you edit this? I am running a lift your red statement is incorrect

and how bad are the pro coils and camber kit?

I have 2-3" pro coils, fuck, I may buy spindles and coils and sell these coils


New Member
Apr 1, 2012
I'm running 4" lower control arms. It's a love hate relationship. Rides great, but fully adjusted my alignment is still out of spec. Ive got an alignment kit though, I'll comment once that is on.


Active Member
Mar 21, 2012
The Boot
Unsure on the camber kit, as far as Jared and Bohall are concerned. Another member, jvoisel had 3" pro coils uncut on his drop the first time, settled to 4" practically overnight. And he said they are much stiffer than the spindles and 2" mcgaughys coils he is running now, as before he didnt bottom out, and now he does with the 2" mcgaughys spindles and 2" mcgaughys coils. I run the 2" mcgaughys coils, settled to 2.5" drop on mine, and I love it.


Loves tacos
Mar 11, 2012
Runaway Bay (N.TX)
We just put shorter shocks in my bros truck and it didn't change the height at all. He went from stock shocks on a 4/6 to some cherokee shocks that were quite a bit shorter and softer.


Feb 8, 2012
North Dallas
Shocks will not net you any more drop...think about it, your mounting points are the same when you take the shock off, a shock will not be able to change that.

Drew Perryman

Blue on Black
Sep 9, 2012
Oxnard, CA
I guess what I don't understand is why wouldn't the spring settle more with a smaller shock? I would think that it would cause the spring to compress more. Hell, maybe it's best that I don't lower it anymore