jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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So i've been thinking, and I decided that I would like to lower the ride height of the truck about 1/2"-1". For the rear I'm thinking about getting some front hangers to achieve that. Anyone have any input on the mcg hangers? I know they say more drop than 1" but I'm thinking I can just compensate for that by changing where they mount on the frame. I figure if I box them in some they should work fine. I have also considered modifying the stock ones.
 

jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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Finally painted the bedcage and put on some real resi mounts. Now just have to clean everything else from having sit outside two weeks ago but we got 6" of snow today.:nomegusta:
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Liamrk

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Oct 11, 2015
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maybe get some rubber and make a little panel to help close in the shock holes that way shit doesnt get everywhere and yet it moves out of the way of the suspension.
Or maybe something kinda like a shift boot would work good

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jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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Mandatory snow mobbing pics
I do want to take it out somewhere for a drive. It's only been driven once in maybe the last month lol.
Or maybe something kinda like a shift boot would work good

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I've been thinking about that too. Mostly just for looks actually. All that dirt in the bed is from hauling hay and sitting under the tree in the driveway. It doesn't send up as much into the bed as you would think. I'm thinking probably some type of rubber that would be more like paneling in there and won't be tight up against the shock.
 

jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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Did the tahoe dual piston upgrade. I had trouble bleeding the brakes so I haven't really got to test it out yet. Feels like I have excessive pedal travel, but the truck is still able to stop.
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jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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Yea, and the pedal travel has always seemed excessive but this seems to have made it even worse. So I'm thinking its just time I took it in some where to have it done and see how that goes.
 

Dakota

Dat Static 4wd
Mar 12, 2012
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What all do you need for that swap? There are a ton of tahoes and burbs at our local U pull it. I've thought about doing the swap before and as I was looking at powerstop brake kits the other day, it seemed like they were all for dual piston front and rear. Might as well upgrade the calipers while I do the rest.

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jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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I got the one click kit from powerstop. But the necessary parts are a complete caliper with the correct brackets, so exactly how you see it in the picture I posted. and then the pads and rotors. I over researched it big time, but the powerstop site breaks it down very well. I got the KC2046 kit for the rear. If you search that on rock auto it even breaks down the components of the kit. Worst case I think what could happen is if you mixed and matched 2wd and 4wd parts or you get a caliper without the mounting bracket. That's why I went with the KC2046, on the powerstop site it even says it fits my truck so I knew I couldn't go wrong.

And I think I did a crappy bleed and I also believe I installed the calipers on the wrong sides, the bleeder screws are pointed down so they are below the brake lines. I'm gonna flip them around and re bleed this week sometime.:tableflip:
 

Dakota

Dat Static 4wd
Mar 12, 2012
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Gotcha. I expected more parts that just the caliper and bracket. That's good. I know can get some calipers for next to nothing locally. Looks like I'll be doing this pretty soon. :shake:

I'll probably just order the same kit you did as mine is also factory rear disc 4wd.

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Tylers88

3 GM's and a Jeep
Apr 16, 2012
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Yea you definitely have calipers swithed. Swap sides and it should be good, guess I was lucky my nbs had dual piston rears stock
 

jonmx477

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Yep its really that easy. And fyi if you are considering getting some used calipers it may be worth it, I can't say for sure but my reasoning is rockauto does a core charge for these and they are "re-manufactured" so I think powerstop may just put all new seals and rubber, then powdercoat oem calipers. So basically I paid for the baller powdercoat and convience. That and we don't have shit for junk yards around here. But if you're okay with the price imo this is an excellent way to go.

- - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

Yea you definitely have calipers swithed. Swap sides and it should be good, guess I was lucky my nbs had dual piston rears stock
Yea, I gave up for the night. Then like 2 hours later it dawned on me lol. I'm actually surprised I got it bled well enough it was drive-able that way haha. I bet if I had a vacuum bleeder it would work just fine this way.
 

Dakota

Dat Static 4wd
Mar 12, 2012
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I'm looking at doing all 4 at the same time. If I buy them with the calipers like you did, that's almost $600 from rock auto. Lol. If I can get some used calipers cheap, the front and rear rotor kit with pads is $293. I'm too cheap to buy the expensive kit. My truck isn't nice enough for all that. I really don't necessarily NEED to do the dual piston rears but if I can get them cheap, I figure why not?

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jonmx477

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Feb 4, 2011
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Yea for that much it's probably worth finding cheaper calipers haha. So that would be what you need to be sure of is that if you get the rotor and pads from a KC2046 1 click kit then you need the caliper and brackets off a 4wd tahoe. If you look up the 2wd tahoe on powerstop the kit is a KC2047 so there must be some parts different in there.
 

jonmx477

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Got them flipped around and bled and took it through town and was able to get on them hard enough from about 35 I could get the 37's to squeal slowing down. So first test I would say was a success.:success: