NBS E Fan swap

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain Tech' started by jonmx477, Aug 2, 2016.

  1. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
    04 Silverado 1500
    Want to check a couple rock auto part numbers and look for some reviews from people that have got their EFan conversion parts through rock auto.

    First question though is, if I dont have a engine oil cooler port on the current 28" radiator will it matter if the replacement 34" one does...
    If not then the AC delco P/N 21650 is the one I'm looking at.

    For fans, I plan on going through LS1 fans to get a harness.
    Is there a preference between dorman or tyc for fans?
    TYC 622230
    Dorman 620652
     
  2. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
  3. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
    Come on guys has anyone used rock auto parts to do the efan conversion?
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Khaos

    Khaos Bed Dent Club Founder

    Messages:
    20,305
    Mike, get in here and see if these numbers are correct!

    (Mike might not be around til Monday but I'll send him a link)
     
  5. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
    Thanks guys you are a life saver.:handjob:
    I ordered the 34" AC Delco radiator and the Dorman fans. And Scottyboy came in at the right time with a harness for sale and even told me how to hack the mainframe and put an override switch on the factory harness. I'm hoping to get to it this weekend.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    - - - - - - - - - -auto merged double post- - - - - - - - - -

    Mods might as well retitle this "Another Efan Swap"
     
  6. Oktain

    Oktain Canuck Admin Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,849
    Fixed for ya

    Sent from my igloo using my SGS7
     
  7. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
    Got the install done. This is not by any means going to top the in depth that ScottyBoy went into on his write up but it will show a few other small details.
    Before:
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    Remove the shrouding and my clutch fan was stuck on pretty good so I had an extra serp belt laying around and wrapped it all around the water pump and that got it tight enough that I was able to get the clutch fan loose. It it also wrapped around the idler pulley in pic but I ended up taking it off there, but you get the idea.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    Fans and Radiator installed. The reasoning of needing the 34" radiator with the 2006 and up fans is that the fans are meant to fit to that size radiator and the fans bolt up to the core support where the 28" fan used to bolt up. If you have the 28" radiator you can look at the top bolts on the core support and you will see extra bolt holes further out where the 34" radiator will bolt up.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    Using the oem harness or equivalent on an 03 and up will have a green wire and blue wire to tap into the PCM. Remember that you need a tuner to activate these pins and set the parameters for the fans to turn on. With the OEM harness that I got from ScottyBoy I plugged the GREEN WIRE into the BLUE PCM loom and the BLUE WIRE into the GREEN PCM loom. After you remove plugs from PCM you have to pull off the grey covers which can be a pain. You have to sqeeze the clips toward each other and pull. I even had to get needle nose pliers on mine to get them out.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    I added an override switch also. To do this you will tap into the (in my case) GREEN WIRE that goes into the BLUE PCM loom and run it to a switch and then ground the switch. When the switch is on and completes the ground it will turn both fans on low. I spoke with ScottyBoy about the best way to do this and there is a few options. Grounding the other wire will turn one fan on high, and grounding both wires and the same time will turn both fans on high. However be aware that grounding both wires properly will also require the use of diodes so you don't have grounding between wires when either pin is active. Also note that the switch will be able to ground and complete the circuit even with the truck off. This was the main reason I added a switch, so that if needed I can shut the truck off and still keep airflow going in the engine bay. I ended up just grounding one because both fans on low seems to be sufficient in my case.

    Here is where I got my constant power for the harness. I grounded down near the frame horn by the bumper.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr

    The radiator I got also had different tranmission cooler line fittings so to run my hose to my cooler still I needed to get the Hayden 397 fitting that has the gm snap in fitting on one side and a barbed fitting on the other. My factory line is still plugged in because I'm still waiting for the fitting in the mail. But do not remove this fitting from the trans. It is a combination fitting that uses an oring seal for the trans fitting that is under the washer in the pic and the washer seals in the coolant that flows around the built in trans cooler in the tank. I found this out the hard way by getting a strandard hyrdrauilic o ring fitting that seals up the trans line no problem but then when I was filling the coolant it ended up spilling out all around the fitting because the sealing washer was missing on the standard hydraulic fitting.:ffuuu:

    [​IMG]Untitled by Jon Mounter, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2016
  8. Khaos

    Khaos Bed Dent Club Founder

    Messages:
    20,305
    Great info here, I'll be referring to it soon when I use the same harness from Scott for my efans.
     
  9. ScottyBoy

    ScottyBoy The LED Man

    Messages:
    1,320
    Being that I have a Suburban, I already had the 34" radiator so the fans literally slid right onto my radiator. I did my E-fan swap in 2011, so that a solid 5 years now of flawless operation.
    A few guys on Perf Trucks knocked my install because I added an extra relay to convert the AC clutch signal to a negative so that the OEM harness would work on my 2001. For the last 5 hot ass Louisiana summers, I haven't had a single hiccup. These OEM harnesses seem to be a LOT more reliable than the aftermarket harnesses from LS1fans and other sites, as I've seen a few people mentioned that they had the relays and/or relay plugs melted on the aftermarket harnesses.
     
  10. jonmx477

    jonmx477 Active Member

    Messages:
    176
    The harness makes is so easy. Even if you mixed up the wires you would just swap the high/low function of the fans. I checked by starting the truck up and turning the AC on and after a few seconds they both came on low. I messed around with them using a test light and grounding out either the blue or green wire to check their function.
     
  11. Khaos

    Khaos Bed Dent Club Founder

    Messages:
    20,305
    I'm glad I got the oem harness from you Scott, after seeing a few stories of melted relays and other issues from aftermarket ones.
     

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