cknox121

New Member
Mar 27, 2012
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So, before and after the engine build, I had noticed my trucks interior was a little louder then I liked. Mainly when I could hardly carry on a conversation with my grandpa on the interstate. Really all conversations where held with a "louder" voice then normal. The most underling issues are obviously the mud tires, larger turbos, and the free flowing exhaust. I down loaded one of those DB apps. Received a base line of around 80-95dB cruising at 70-80 on the interstate, no radio playing.

No sure who all has seen the "sound deadener" thread here, but I have spent the last 4-5weeks reading it and others to gather information about the best products vs the cheapest. I decided to go with the RAAMat product line. Ordered up Package 1 and 2 which should be enough to do the whole interior, maybe some parts twice.

I tackled the rear doors tonight. Took about 3 hours to complete, although I had already installed B-Quiet on the outer skins when I first got the truck.

The method is layer of BXT then layer of Ensolite. I completed this on the outer skin
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Next I did a layer of BXT on the inter door skin. I used the moisture barrier as a template to trace all the holes out.
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Then laid the BXT on the inner skin
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I filled in all the left over open spaces with the bits I had cut, as well as used long strips
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Then I used the moisture barrier to trace out the Ensolite and layered it on top of the BXT.
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Final product
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Very pleased with the product and how it layered nicely. I used a pair of leather gloves to massage the BXT into place to keep from getting cut by the aluminum. The doors sound more "dead" then hollow now. They sound more solid when closing. Plan is to tackle a door or two here and there, and then finally yank out the whole interior to do the floor, back wall, fire wall, A,B and C pillars.


Enjoy. I'll update as I get more accomplished.

Yes it's a ford but same concept.

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marc

WhiteSilvy
May 16, 2013
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i would have most likely not used the vapor barrier as a trace since the holes are quite over kill.

the closer you get to the handle and the empty holes the better the product would work, i assume.

it is cool that you got a decibel reading be fore since i really wanna know if the difference is worth it.

look forward to the progress.
 
Oct 16, 2011
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have u even done this urself, marc?

that 1-2" "over kill" holes wont do shit to noise dampening. You need good clearance around those holes so the door panels can be hung easily and not run into issues with rods binding and watnot. Using the plastic sheet as a template is a good idea and it makes the job a lot quicker. You dont need 110% coverage when doing this, so that lil bit of space around the holes is fine. Using big pieces of deadener instead of lil pieces here and there is more important than an extra inch or two of clearance around a hole....the larger the pieces you use, the better.

edit: I used a db meter and "decibel 10th" app.

sound level meter DT-85A results AFTER full cab raammat install:
Idle: 72db
75mph: 83db

Decibel 10th results AFTER install:
Idle: 69db
75mph: 76db

Honda_dB_chart.jpg
 
Last edited:

marc

WhiteSilvy
May 16, 2013
5,303
123
63
31
canada
have u even done this urself, marc?

that 1-2" "over kill" holes wont do shit to noise dampening. You need good clearance around those holes so the door panels can be hung easily and not run into issues with rods binding and watnot. Using the plastic sheet as a template is a good idea and it makes the job a lot quicker. You dont need 110% coverage when doing this, so that lil bit of space around the holes is fine. Using big pieces of deadener instead of lil pieces here and there is more important than an extra inch or two of clearance around a hole....the larger the pieces you use, the better.

nope i have not, and that is why i assumed it would work better, and wasn't sure.

good to know though for future reference :shake: