Cam swap info and part numbers

Discussion in 'Performance' started by 2005_Silverado, Jan 9, 2013.

  1. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    So Im doing a cam swap and I figured itd be cool if I posted pns and my experience doing this. Ive been reading a lot on ls1tech and random sites...looks like Im doing this over MLK weekend.

    So far Ive got

    My cam-----------------54-414-11 (216/220 525/532 114LSA)
    Timing Set--------------C3220
    Timing Cover Gaskets----TCS45993
    Oil Pan Gasket----------OS30693R
    Oil Pump----------------M295
    Oil Pump Seal-----------72401 (Spare...One comes in timing cover gasket set)
    Valve Seals-------------SS71039
    Blue Valve Springs-------12499224 (Good for 570 lift)
    7.4 Chromoly Push Rods--PR7375312
    Balancer Bolt------------12557840
    M16x2x120mm bolt------Local hardware store (To seat the balancer on the crank...oem is too short)

    I'll be borrowing the valve spring compressor tool from brett, he got it from HF. To keep the lifters from dropping, I'll be using 5/16 dowels. To keep the valves from dropping when swapping springs, Im just gonna put each piston at TDC with lil peice of nylon rope in the chamber to avoid metal to metal contact. Most of my knowledge comes from http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23 but since thats for F-bodies, Im sure I wont be so cramped and things might be a smidge diff.

    Im already BBP'd and Justin lives 1.5hrs from me, I'll just meet up with him for a re-tune but it will run as is no problem. Cam is borderline needing a lil higher stall converter....if I find a cheap I6 TB verter, I'll slap it in there...otherwise its staying stock.

    Stay tuned!

    Edit: Im including head gasket and lifter part #s for ref in case you do them as well.

    LS7 lifters---------12499225
    LS2 trays----------12595365 (You need these if you run LS7 lifters)
    Head gaskets------12498544
    04+ head bolts----17800568
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2014
  2. GR$$N$

    GR$$N$ Super Moderator

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  3. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    btw,



    thats it right there
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 21, 2016
  4. Gannon

    Gannon That Guy

    Messages:
    4,723
    Get a fitting that screws into your spark plug hole, easier and faster than using rope.


    Sent from my iPhone 4s
     
  5. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    i could, but according to linz, at tdc vqlves hardly drop....lil 12" nylon rope will work just fine. too lazy to make a line n shit
     
  6. J_Corr

    J_Corr Chapter Leader

    Messages:
    2,578
    sounds perfect.
     
  7. Peyton676

    Peyton676 New Member

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    1,588
    Hey if you want to buy that truck in the video its forsale lol

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  8. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    so the hqrbor freight valve spring compressor is junk...cant get it to hold the spring down. barely got 2 springs swapped in.

    some pointers...DONT drop the oil pick up tube bolt, I did and have to drop my oil pan.

    pan is bolted to the trans with 2 15mm bolts iirc and u gotta remove the crossmember 18mm bolts and lil braces from the frame

    no need to remove the compressor, but u will have a hard time with the timing cover bolt by the compressor

    if u dont have a flywheel stopper and ur compressor aint a bamf, ur gonna fight with it. u gotta wrap the big belt around the crank pulley and fold it in and around again, then onto the idler....this will make the belt tighten even more as u crank on that bolt. i needed by breaker bar and a pipe wrench on it as an extension, after 180* turn, it let loose and came out by hand.

    use a 7 ton puller to get the pulley off...thread the old bolt in a couple turns and use its head to push against the puller stud. the lil clamps have to face out towards the outside od the pulley, theres tabs on it where the puller can get a grip on.

    the coil pack closest to the firewall on passenger side has to come off so u can get to the baxk bolt holding the coil packs on the valve cover. once the fgt pack it out, u can get to the bolt and the entire assembly comes out.

    cut the dowels to 24", any longer and u wont be abke to slide them in...5/16 fits perfect in both sides

    rent the compression tester from oreillys...take out the lil valve inside the end that goes inside the head and set ur compressor at 50psi...holds the valve up perfectly.

    i cant get the crank timing gear off, idk how to either...mf is pressed in and doesnt wanna move.

    ill think of something else tomorrow im sure....gotta finish tomorrow
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2014
  9. HackMcMaster

    HackMcMaster Active Member

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    Fucking sledgehammer


    Sent from a secure terminal using the classified military network
     
  10. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    no real progress today...mostly spent the day with wiffuh, got like 2-3 hours in today.

    if ur using the hf valve spring compressor, its gonna take forever to swap springs...the pos slides off the springs all the time...be prepared for flying springs, so never point it at urself.

    I was able to reach the springs closest to the firewall, just gotta cut some of the padding off...no biggie.

    Looks like i need a smaller 3 jaw puller for the crank sprocket, will get that tomorrow.

    In order to drop the oil pan, Ive got to drop the front crossmember, seems like theres a special sequence when bolting up the pan, gotta look into it and find out what goes on first.

    Other than that, it should be smooth sailing tomorrow.
     
  11. HackMcMaster

    HackMcMaster Active Member

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    4,779
    That's what I said the last 5 days something always pops up and bites me in the ass


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  12. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    cam is in and fired right up. took a while for it to pump oil but came right up....idke is fucked and its relearning so its all over the place...can barely hear the lope cuznits idling at 700+.

    removing the crossmember was easy...remove 2 bolts for the crossbars, remove 6 bolts for tje xmember and 2 for the rack n pinion. the pan drops right down after that...just make sure u remove a bolt holding a bracket on tjhe passenger side.

    my pan had NASTY sludge at the bottom, took a while cleaning it out. the oem gaske jhas 3 rivets, drill them out. dry it, put the new gasket on and all the bolts, tje hasket holds them in place.

    when installing the pan again, put on ur timing cover, hand tihten the bolts for the cover...then hand tighten all the pan bolts, including the ones that hold the timing cover...i put some rtv where those 2 meet. then tighten the 2 smaller bolts at the back of the pan, then tje 2 that go to the trans. once all are snug....tigjten the timing cover....the one bolt by the compressor is a lil bitch....then go back down under tje truck and tigjten tje pan bolts, then the lil bolts and finally the trans bolts...torque was 22ft lbs, 106in lbs and 37 ft lbs...make sure u torque the two lil bolts to in lbs, not ft.

    after that, just slap on ur xmember and rack back on.

    whem u install the timing cover, dont tighten it before putting on the pulley, the pulley centers the cover around it and makes its own seal.if u tigjten the cover w/o tje pulley on there, u run the risk of the seal not sealing. You def need a longer crank bolt for this...use one of the washer from the steering rack and press the pulley on a turn or two....then use ur old bolt to fully seat the pulley....pay attention to the sealing surface on the pulley, that will tell u where the old seal was cuz one section is clean, other is dirty/black.

    i was able to remove the crank gewr with a 2 ton 3 jaw puller from oreillh, they have 2 diff ones, u want the one with the thin hooks.

    to remove the pulley, u need some metal plate to put on the crank snout so the puller can press on that...the oem crank bolt head is too big, the puller wont reach behind tue gear..i used a lil piece off my quad chain press.

    to put the new gear in, slide it on, gears towards engine (i pressed it on backwards the first time...lol) and slide the old one on...grab ur old crank bolt and crank away....new gear installed.

    oreillys timing cover set comes with 3 diff oil pump o-rings, use the red one...youll also have paper water pump gaskets, junk them...and a round gasket, junk it was well.

    sorry if this isnt in order, im just adding as i remember..more to come tomorrow
     
  13. Fourstar07

    Fourstar07 Active Member

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    1,399
    a lot more shit to drop on a crew cab it seems, nice write up eddie, ill keep some of this in mind, thanks
     
  14. James

    James Active Member

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    995
    Interested in videos, looking at same exact cam.
     
  15. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    4,677
    ill get a vid once Im retuned, idle is all over the place right now and its hard to really tell what this cam sounds like. im just waiting on jenna to get back to me, need to know when justin will be in town.

    ive got a shitty sound clip, ill fwd it to you.
     
  16. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 21, 2016
  17. Peyton676

    Peyton676 New Member

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    1,588
    Its not going to cut up to hard,my truck idles at 750,we dont idle our trucks at 300rpm lol

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  18. 2005_Silverado

    2005_Silverado Banned

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    after tune



    bumped idle to 700
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 21, 2016
  19. HackMcMaster

    HackMcMaster Active Member

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    4,779
    I want 300 rpm idle


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  20. Jared

    Jared Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    20,614
    any fuel mileage decrease that you have notices?
     

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