wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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Been looking at doing an HID retro in my 2005 silvy.

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)

This is the kit I want to install. I'm only planning (at this point) to do the M1 in the high beam location. Its much deeper and should require less cutting.

This is the write up I am going to follow.

2003 - 2007 Chevy Silverado QUAD Morimoto mini H1 retro. 56K warning!



Does anyone have any info they can share about doing this retro? Past experiences? Tips?

Does anyone have any pics of stock headlights with the retro done in just the high beam location?
 
why would you want to retro the highbeam? plus your not gonna want to run a HID in your highs, it wont be on long enough to justify it and the constant cylcing will kill the bulb or the ballast.

glare doesnt matter for a highbeam.

only person i know of on the forum with retroed lights in a silvy is james pate.

he has a projector retro low, and then had a led cube for the high, but recently pulled the cube out for a standard style bulb
 

Oktain

Canuck Admin
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Feb 9, 2012
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Quads are more for style than function. I personally can't justify the doubled price.

Sent from my igloo using my SGS4 eh.
 

j.mo

Well-Known Member
Apr 24, 2012
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I have a retro in mine with mh1 6.0
It's a bi xenon projector, so why do you need one in your high beam slot?
The bi xenon addresses the warm up time of the bulb ginger was talking about.
Because that bulb has already been on, and the shield folds down, becoming a high beam, then back into place when done. No warm up time.
Also, quads look like shit. Don't do it
 

wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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why would you want to retro the highbeam? plus your not gonna want to run a HID in your highs, it wont be on long enough to justify it and the constant cylcing will kill the bulb or the ballast.

glare doesnt matter for a highbeam.

only person i know of on the forum with retroed lights in a silvy is james pate.

he has a projector retro low, and then had a led cube for the high, but recently pulled the cube out for a standard style bulb

Let me clear this up.

I am not running a projector in the high beam location to just act as a high beam. I want to use the bi-xenon I posted and use it as my low beam and high beam. I want to use the high beam location because it is SIGNIFICANTLY deeper. Therefore, i do not have to cut as much out to fit the long projector in the housing.
 

GeoffSFAs10

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May 7, 2012
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Then what are you going to do to fill the low beam spot? Just put a bulb in there and leave it disconnected? The projectors arent that long and there is room there, i would retro into the low beam spot and hook the bi-xenon up with the halogen bulb, it provides nice fill when you do use them.
 

wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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why dont you do like the denali retrofit, aka my trucks style, i have a bi-xenon setup in my low beam, so when i turn on the high beams the shutter opens giving more light and then the high beam bulb turns on a well providing even more light.

I don't really think it is crucial to have a halogen high beam plus the bi-xenon.

Then what are you going to do to fill the low beam spot? Just put a bulb in there and leave it disconnected? The projectors arent that long and there is room there, i would retro into the low beam spot and hook the bi-xenon up with the halogen bulb, it provides nice fill when you do use them.

I could put an LED bulb in the low. That would match my HID color. Then do 4- Hi mod. This would satisfy the "fill" you are referring too.
 
I don't really think it is crucial to have a halogen high beam plus the bi-xenon.



I could put an LED bulb in the low. That would match my HID color. Then do 4- Hi mod. This would satisfy the "fill" you are referring too.

you would need a 4 lo mod to do this, plus then you would need to do some custom wiring and shit to get the shutter to move with the high beam.

and trust me, tomorrow go for a ride in my truck it does make a big dif with the highs on with the shutter vs just having the shutter move.

i can show you by unpluging the high beem relay.
 

Khaos

Bed Dent Club Founder
Mar 24, 2012
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It really is more hassle than it's worth to try and do what you're talking about. I had retro fitted Denalis earlier this year and with just the shutter, it was bright but about the same as any other hid high beam. Add in the halogen high beam and you can see so much more.
 

wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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It really is more hassle than it's worth to try and do what you're talking about. I had retro fitted Denalis earlier this year and with just the shutter, it was bright but about the same as any other hid high beam. Add in the halogen high beam and you can see so much more.

Can you elaborate?


And I said having a halogen high beam wasn't CRUCIAL. Not that it didn't help.
 

wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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hes saying that the retrofit just to have the one beam be you high and low isnt worth the hassle, you would be much better off doing it the way everyone has done so you still have a functioning high beam as well as the projector as the halogen hi beam really does help.

How hard is it to pull out your headlight housing? I wanna mess with it when i come to the shop tomorrow.


Side note: I'm buying a new battery on the way to the shop tomorrow. On these cold mornings it turns over so incredibly slow I'm not sure how it actually starts my truck
 

Khaos

Bed Dent Club Founder
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Just the fact that you'd have to either swap pigtails side to side, or if you just wanted low beams in all four cut and solder the high beam pigtails into the low beam wiring, then still do the retrofit.

You're already opening up the housing, so you can see at that point how the projector fits in the low beam spot.
 

wretched73

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Apr 18, 2012
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Just the fact that you'd have to either swap pigtails side to side, or if you just wanted low beams in all four cut and solder the high beam pigtails into the low beam wiring, then still do the retrofit.

You're already opening up the housing, so you can see at that point how the projector fits in the low beam spot.

If you look at the write up I posted. The guy does quad M1 projectors and you can see how much more cutting is needed for the low beam spot.
 
How hard is it to pull out your headlight housing? I wanna mess with it when i come to the shop tomorrow.


Side note: I'm buying a new battery on the way to the shop tomorrow. On these cold mornings it turns over so incredibly slow I'm not sure how it actually starts my truck

not hard at all, i can pull it in about a min, putting it back in can take up to 15 depending on how pissed i get if the pin doesnt lin back up.

and what are you getting?

im surprised my optima still works

and im also suprised the optima still works in the bagged truck too
 

wretched73

Member
Apr 18, 2012
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not hard at all, i can pull it in about a min, putting it back in can take up to 15 depending on how pissed i get if the pin doesnt lin back up.

and what are you getting?

im surprised my optima still works

and im also suprised the optima still works in the bagged truck too

Probably going to autohell and getting the Duralast Platinum.

I don't feel like monkeying around and buying a battery on line or something.