How close are you to the droop stops for the uca? Mine is only about a 1/4" away and doesn't look anywhere near that big. I am only on a 31" tire though.
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Bout' the same right now. 1/4". But, it's got that "Cali lean" going on.... 
I've decranked some... But, it's still 3/4" higher up front. 39 1/4" F, 38.5" rear with full tank gas today.
I've decranked some... But, it's still 3/4" higher up front. 39 1/4" F, 38.5" rear with full tank gas today.
Thanks! 
They're Moto-Fab brand 1.5" billet aluminum, black. I'll find the eBay link. Seem pretty nice IMO for the money. $34.99.
Edit: eBay link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TAHOE...147486?hash=item4af736dbde:g:F54AAOSwoydWlnTG
They're Moto-Fab brand 1.5" billet aluminum, black. I'll find the eBay link. Seem pretty nice IMO for the money. $34.99.
Edit: eBay link.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TAHOE...147486?hash=item4af736dbde:g:F54AAOSwoydWlnTG
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Do you have the damn auto-level shocks on yours? There were three types of shocks that came on the suburbans, a regular shock and two types of self leveling shocks. One type of self leveling had air lines connected to them, and the other ones were completely self contained units that were big as fuck. They were called Nivomat shocks. Mine originally had the Nivomat shocks, and they worked great until they went out, but I replaced them with KYB Monomax shocks because the Nivomats are almost $400 EACH!!. I'm actually on my second set of Monomax shocks. Angelo and Dennis actually installed them for me a few weeks ago. But I've heard that if you replaced any self leveling shocks with regular shocks, that you should replace the springs as well. I never did replace my springs. But IMO it rides just fine with those springs in there even though they were made to be used with the Nivomat shocks. But what I'm getting at, is I wonder if it would sit any higher if I actually installed some replacement Moog coil springs, maybe Z71 springs or something.
@ScottyBoy
Ok.... I've been doing quite a bit of reading on this topic recently.....
My Burb does have the ZW7 rpo code for "premium soft ride self leveling" rear shocks. Nivomats. Like you said they are a big ass gas charged self leveling shock. No electronics, sensors, compressors, or links. Completey self contained.
Four setups one could have.... Standard springs/shocks, Z71 springs/shocks, Nivomat shocks/"softer rate" springs, and Auto-ride rear suspension (containing gas shocks with air bags on each rear shock, compressor, links, sensors, etc). Our old Yukon had Autoride.... Drop kit put the rear brake cable in a lower position, rubbed hole in air bag on shock, PSSHHHHHHHHHH.... leak! Pulled Autoride compressor fuse, rode on.
From what I'd read the ZW7 Nivomat equipped SUVs rear springs are softer. If you replaced the Nivomat shocks with "regular" it'd handle funny, sway, etc. Good to hear yours doesn't appear to be affected.
I'm currently just gonna run my Nivomats and get lower shock extensions. Mine rode/rides great as is and I see no reason to swap them right now. If I do... I'd prefer to go with Bilsteins. You can upgrade to Moog replacement coils or Bilstein coils.... Or Z71 coils which will gain you some height. 1/2"-1" height I've read.
Another interesting note: While I had my coils out swapping in the 1.5" coil spacers... I compared the ZW7 Burb rear springs to my stock 05' Yukon Autoride coils. Autoride coils about 1" taller. Coil diameters "seem the same".... Rates?!? Idk..!?!
Burb left, Yukon right:
Ok.... I've been doing quite a bit of reading on this topic recently.....
My Burb does have the ZW7 rpo code for "premium soft ride self leveling" rear shocks. Nivomats. Like you said they are a big ass gas charged self leveling shock. No electronics, sensors, compressors, or links. Completey self contained.
Four setups one could have.... Standard springs/shocks, Z71 springs/shocks, Nivomat shocks/"softer rate" springs, and Auto-ride rear suspension (containing gas shocks with air bags on each rear shock, compressor, links, sensors, etc). Our old Yukon had Autoride.... Drop kit put the rear brake cable in a lower position, rubbed hole in air bag on shock, PSSHHHHHHHHHH.... leak! Pulled Autoride compressor fuse, rode on.
From what I'd read the ZW7 Nivomat equipped SUVs rear springs are softer. If you replaced the Nivomat shocks with "regular" it'd handle funny, sway, etc. Good to hear yours doesn't appear to be affected.
I'm currently just gonna run my Nivomats and get lower shock extensions. Mine rode/rides great as is and I see no reason to swap them right now. If I do... I'd prefer to go with Bilsteins. You can upgrade to Moog replacement coils or Bilstein coils.... Or Z71 coils which will gain you some height. 1/2"-1" height I've read.
Another interesting note: While I had my coils out swapping in the 1.5" coil spacers... I compared the ZW7 Burb rear springs to my stock 05' Yukon Autoride coils. Autoride coils about 1" taller. Coil diameters "seem the same".... Rates?!? Idk..!?!
Burb left, Yukon right:
Yeah, ride quality is pretty much about the same without the Nivomats. Unless the KYB Monomax shocks are so stiff that it ends up evening out with the stiff shocks and soft springs. But when I had that accident on the highway recently and busted a shock, I REALLY felt how soft the spring was on that side with a bad shock. I had to drive 200 miles home like that with a busted shock. But I will tell you this, if I tow anything, the ass end squats BAD with the KYB shocks. When the Nivomats were still working, I could hook up to a trailer, it would squat but then after a half mile or so of driving it would level itself out. That's the big benefit of the Nivomat shocks. If you do any towing, then keep the Nivomats as long as you can.
Gotcha!
I do like to play around and hook the trailers up every now and then.... Nothing real heavy. If I need that, I use the HD. But, this will probably be used for towing a loaded trailer of fourwheelers/dirt bikes to the mountains once in awhile. I liked how the Nivomats handled my dump trailer with mulch on it the other wknd.
I do like to play around and hook the trailers up every now and then.... Nothing real heavy. If I need that, I use the HD. But, this will probably be used for towing a loaded trailer of fourwheelers/dirt bikes to the mountains once in awhile. I liked how the Nivomats handled my dump trailer with mulch on it the other wknd.
Finally got the rear spacers on. Cleaned up and claybar'd. Gonna start the Adam's process.
Better, new pics.
Better, new pics.
A do have a soft spot for a big suv but I can't imagine cleaning the interior LOL
live from the gutter trash.
live from the gutter trash.
Thanks!!!
I will always miss the RCSB..... But, this thing is quickly helping to fill that "void". It's a great DD.... Looking better and more aggressive helps it to stand apart from the other grocery-getter Burbs on the road. I love it!
Thanks! Well.... I did a super thorough cleaning intially which took some serious time. But, now its just a quick vacuum and wipe down.
I got a few things done this wknd on the Burb. Put a new fuel filter on for piece of mind. Put a new AC compressor belt on as the PO had removed it for some reason!?! Wondered what "issue" I'd find once I turned it on....?!? Hmm... Nothing! Everything was quiet.... Tensioner was quiet. Almost too quiet.... Ah, the compressor clutch wasn't engaging! Low pressure! I grabbed a couple small cans of refrigerant and charged the system. Everything works now and blows cold air! I guess I'll see if it lasts.....? Or has a leak..!?!
Pulled the RCSB upper bumper cap off of it and freshened it up. Sanded down lightly, touched up a crack it had and "plasti-welded" it, adhesion promoter, couple light coats of primer, pewter base, and a couple coats of clear. Looks good as new! Ended up pulling the RCSB grille as well and tossing it on the Burb for a "change".
Bumper cap on and RCSB grille....
Pulled the RCSB upper bumper cap off of it and freshened it up. Sanded down lightly, touched up a crack it had and "plasti-welded" it, adhesion promoter, couple light coats of primer, pewter base, and a couple coats of clear. Looks good as new! Ended up pulling the RCSB grille as well and tossing it on the Burb for a "change".
Bumper cap on and RCSB grille....
Looks great man just needs some clear corners and in channel visors!
live from the gutter trash.
live from the gutter trash.
Thanks!
I'll probably get some clear corners soon. Just know it's a waste of $30 to get some that'll be yellowed in a years time!
Visors were on it and I do use them at work to keep the windows cracked. If it didn't already have these I'd probably try the in-channel ones. Maybe someday if I pull these off.
I'll probably get some clear corners soon. Just know it's a waste of $30 to get some that'll be yellowed in a years time!
Visors were on it and I do use them at work to keep the windows cracked. If it didn't already have these I'd probably try the in-channel ones. Maybe someday if I pull these off.
Burb started spitting and sputtering 2 wks ago on the way home from work. Wouldn't accelerate more than 1/8th throttle. Coughing back through the intake. Nothing above 1500-1600 rpms. Babied it home and shut it down. Wouldn't prime enough to restart. Fuel pump was making horrible groaning sounds. Of course, the fuel tank was completely FULL!
Pulled fuel filter out of the line and pumped (slowly) 30 gals of gas into cans. Then tackled removing the tank.
Pulled out this burnt up Airtex fuel pump....
Replaced with new ACDelco parts...
Back in service, even washed!!!
Pulled fuel filter out of the line and pumped (slowly) 30 gals of gas into cans. Then tackled removing the tank.
Pulled out this burnt up Airtex fuel pump....
Replaced with new ACDelco parts...
Back in service, even washed!!!
The pumps are a pain to get to on these. We attempted it on my dad's Yukon a few years back. Got the tank down and the top of the fuel pump was so rusted and crusty, it wouldn't budge. We finally just had a friend who has a shop do it lol.
Glad it's back up and running!
Glad it's back up and running!
I hear ya! I hear they can be a pain in the ass.....
I got lucky. Everything came apart fairly easily. I didn't even pull the tank completely out. I unhooked filler/vent hoses. Undid straps and let the rear rest on a jack stand. Front stays supported by crossmember. Lowered rear down until it sat on the driveway. Climbed under, from passenger side, and kinda sat up between the muffler and driveshaft. I worked from there and got the lines and electrical connectors undone. Then, undid the lock ring and pulled the pump out. Same, but in reverse, for the installation. Of course, mine apparently has been apart before as the original ACDelco pump was gone and replaced with an Airtex.
Clean pic...
I got lucky. Everything came apart fairly easily. I didn't even pull the tank completely out. I unhooked filler/vent hoses. Undid straps and let the rear rest on a jack stand. Front stays supported by crossmember. Lowered rear down until it sat on the driveway. Climbed under, from passenger side, and kinda sat up between the muffler and driveshaft. I worked from there and got the lines and electrical connectors undone. Then, undid the lock ring and pulled the pump out. Same, but in reverse, for the installation. Of course, mine apparently has been apart before as the original ACDelco pump was gone and replaced with an Airtex.
Clean pic...
