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Gotcha...
Say hypothetically i have a leak, while im sleeping at night, with a pressure switch my compressor would turn on all through the night and possibly kill my battery right?

Also what brand airline is good to run? SMC?
 
Gotcha...
Say hypothetically i have a leak, while im sleeping at night, with a pressure switch my compressor would turn on all through the night and possibly kill my battery right?

Also what brand airline is good to run? SMC?

Wire the compressors to a switched relay with the power switch running to a power source that is off unless the ignition is on.

Remember that guy with the orange/white OBS at the meet that had to keep airing his truck down because it lifted itself over time? yeah he needed check valves - they are a good idea IMO
 
Gotcha...
Say hypothetically i have a leak, while im sleeping at night, with a pressure switch my compressor would turn on all through the night and possibly kill my battery right?

Also what brand airline is good to run? SMC?

if you wired it straight to your battery, yes. what you do is run a relay that doesn't allow the compressor(s) to run unless the key is in the on position. that way when your truck is off, nothing will run.

some one else will have to chime in on the airline. I had a bad experience with plastic push to connect airline on my old s-10 and I dont run it anymore.
 
this is probably because the tank pressure is higher than the valves are made to handle. I can let my truck sit for days and it will not air itself up or leak.
 
Wire the compressors to a switched relay with the power switch running to a power source that is off unless the ignition is on.

Remember that guy with the orange/white OBS at the meet that had to keep airing his truck down because it lifted itself over time? yeah he needed check valves - they are a good idea IMO
Ahh ok...i didnt talk to that guy but that sounds whack..
Angelo I hope your asking these questions for a reason :secret:
Of course
if you wired it straight to your battery, yes. what you do is run a relay that doesn't allow the compressor(s) to run unless the key is in the on position. that way when your truck is off, nothing will run.

some one else will have to chime in on the airline. I had a bad experience with plastic push to connect airline on my old s-10 and I dont run it anymore.

That sounds good, so i could get a pressure switch with a relay and a check valve and be fine
 
Almost forgot - here is a convo that CUB and i had through PM on this subject that might be helpful to some, and he said it was fine if i posted it here.....



Quote Originally Posted by CUB

What do you think about a bag over axle monolink setup for my rear?
Like getting the leafs flattened out or whatever so there's no spring in em.

I won't be towing, racing etc.

/CUB


Quote Originally Posted by Adjusted

Suspension Link Video - YouTube

Check that video out, it is essentially a two-link. As you can see, monoleaf can throw your pinion so out of whack when ride height is not perfectly set every time you air your truck up, that causes vibrations and premature wear of parts. Also, when at ride height your axle will be centered in the middle of the fender (if setup correctly), but at any other ride height the axle will be slightly off-center (closer to the cab) from its factory position, which looks goofy. That setup also promotes side-to-side movement, which you dont want no matter what style of driving you are doing, a watts link might work for stabilizing the axle, im not positive, but with this setup it is more important than any other to add some type of stabilizing bar(s) that is connected to the frame besides the point where the link bars are. IMO there is no reason to do this setup on a truck that youll drive regularly, a 4-link is EASY to do and make ride awesome - especially since you know someone who can weld (buying a weld-on kit is tons cheaper than a bolt on kit). Also, ive heard that BOA doesnt ride great, but is best for towing, and since you wont be towing i wouldnt run that setup. A 4-link would lend itself to adding spring cups to the bars much more than a monoleaf setup. Leafs break with a monoleaf if not setup well, too. You also might want to look into tri-3-links. Mono and 2 links will get you on the ground for cheaper, but you wont be as happy in the long run IMO, especially on a daily driver. Im no expert, and there are more reasons to go 3 or 4 link, but those are the most important ones, but if I were you I would stay away.



Anyone feel free to add to/correct this info as you see fit.
 
That sounds good, so i could get a pressure switch with a relay and a check valve and be fine

a pressure switch and a relay are two different things, I got the Stinger 80a Relay and wired it as such and it works well (from the little that ive played with it)

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Edit: Ive seen a p/s and a relay built into one assembly, but cant speak for reliability or how to set one up. Those stinger relays are boss though, and if you DO go with accuair you will have a kit-included pressure switch that runs to the ECU, therefore youll need a separate relay.
 
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Good info in here guys. I'm trying to read up as much as possible. Wish some of you bagged guys were closer. I'd buy beer all weekend just to gain some knowledge from y'all lol
 
Won't be doing accuair. Thanks for the info Brandon.
Do you know of/heard of any issues with running KP cups on stock 20's?
 
Won't be doing accuair. Thanks for the info Brandon.
Do you know of/heard of any issues with running KP cups on stock 20's?

Im pretty unfamiliar with NNBS front suspensions, but i think in 07-08 the front end could be bagged using cups - and if its anything like the cup setups on NBS trucks there are no problems with them. Very straightforward; take out springs and shocks, bolt cups to bags, run a fitting and airline to the bag, bolt upper cup to spring pocket, let bottom cup float in LCA spring pocket, bam.
 
And I still thank you for your display of knowledge and wisdom.

It helped me realize that static will my suspension mod of choice lol.